Skip to main content

Martini Roof

Type
Altitude
5m
Part of

The boulder with an amazing horizontal roof with no (solid) holds on it. But it makes a good pad stash.

Image
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Dicky, V1 V1
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V1

Sit start left of Brassneck & traverse along the lip of the roof on jugs, then head up above One Trick Pony.


 Tricky Dicky, V6 V6
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

Link Dicky into Tricky via a burly dropdown onto the big red sloper. Comprehensively superseded by Thor’s Hammer.


 Brassneck, V8 V8
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

One of the lowest problems at the Rak! Sit start on the low roof, right hand on a good edge & left hand in a shallow dish. Pull up (crux) & lunge left to a good rail. Exit up on good holds (beware the dab).


 Thor’s Hammer, V9 V9
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V9

Start sitting as for Brassneck. Throw lefthand up & over to a smooth sloper. Staying below lip, traverse right using a chipped hold & some great slopers to the big red sloper. Finish along Vision Thing. A pumper.


 Loki The Trickster, V8 V8
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

Thor’s Hammer Lite! As for that problem but finish up Tricky.


 One Trick Pony, V5 V5
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start hanging footless on the big red slop- er. Campus up & left to a fat pinch, then again to the lip. True sit start (on lower holds) is about V6.


 Tricky, V5 V5
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start as for One Trick Pony but head right then up on pleasant slopers.


 Vision Thing, V7 V7
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Largely superseded by Thor’s Hammer. Sit start left of the big red sloper on Tricky, with hands on a big pinch and a sharp sidepull crimp. Pull on, snatch the red sloper & campus match (unless you’ve used the unapproved heel hook beta). Head right as per Tricky but carry on along the lip of the cave until you reach a big crack. Exit up.


 Splinter, V7 V7
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Better than it looks. Climb the horizontal roof at the seaward end of the Martini Roof from two underclings in the obvious crack. A devious sequence with double toe jams seems to be the key. No dabs!


Comments
UUID
 
e58bbd4c-55b5-4ce1-aa76-01b0a1304ee8