Martini Roof

(9 routes)

The boulder with an amazing horizontal roof with no (solid) holds on it. But it makes a good pad stash.

Altitude: 
5m
Type: 
Boulder
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Dicky V1
0
Sit start left of Brassneck & traverse along the lip of the roof on jugs, then head up above One Trick Pony.
Richard Thomson, 2007
Tricky Dicky V6
0
Link Dicky into Tricky via a burly dropdown onto the big red sloper. Comprehensively superseded by Thor’s Hammer.
John Palmer, 2007
Brassneck V8
0
One of the lowest problems at the Rak! Sit start on the low roof, right hand on a good edge & left hand in a shallow dish. Pull up (crux) & lunge left to a good rail. Exit up on good holds (beware the dab).
John Palmer, 2006
Thor’s Hammer V9
1.02
Start sitting as for Brassneck. Throw lefthand up & over to a smooth sloper. Staying below lip, traverse right using a chipped hold & some great slopers to the big red sloper. Finish along Vision Thing. A pumper.
Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2011
Loki The Trickster V8
0
Thor’s Hammer Lite! As for that problem but finish up Tricky.
Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2011
One Trick Pony V5
1.02
Start hanging footless on the big red slop- er. Campus up & left to a fat pinch, then again to the lip. True sit start (on lower holds) is about V6.
John Palmer, 2006
Tricky V5
1.02
Start as for One Trick Pony but head right then up on pleasant slopers.
John Palmer, 2007
Vision Thing V7
0
Largely superseded by Thor’s Hammer. Sit start left of the big red sloper on Tricky, with hands on a big pinch and a sharp sidepull crimp. Pull on, snatch the red sloper & campus match (unless you’ve used the unapproved heel hook beta). Head right as per Tricky but carry on along the lip of the cave until you reach a big crack. Exit up.
John Palmer, 2008
Splinter V7
1.02
Better than it looks. Climb the horizontal roof at the seaward end of the Martini Roof from two underclings in the obvious crack. A devious sequence with double toe jams seems to be the key. No dabs!
John Palmer, 2008

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