The boulder with an amazing horizontal roof with no (solid) holds on it. But it makes a good pad stash.
Altitude:
5m
Type:
Boulder

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Dicky | V1 |
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Sit start left of Brassneck & traverse along the lip of the roof on jugs, then head up above One Trick Pony.
Richard Thomson, 2007
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Tricky Dicky | V6 |
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Link Dicky into Tricky via a burly dropdown onto the big red sloper. Comprehensively superseded by Thor’s Hammer.
John Palmer, 2007
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Brassneck | V8 |
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One of the lowest problems at the Rak! Sit start on the low roof, right hand on a good edge & left hand in a shallow dish. Pull up (crux) & lunge left to a good rail. Exit up on good holds (beware the dab).
John Palmer, 2006
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Thor’s Hammer | V9 |
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Start sitting as for Brassneck. Throw lefthand up & over to a smooth sloper. Staying below lip, traverse right using a chipped hold & some great slopers to the big red sloper. Finish along Vision Thing. A pumper.
Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2011
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Loki The Trickster | V8 |
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Thor’s Hammer Lite! As for that problem but finish up Tricky.
Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 2011
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One Trick Pony | V5 |
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Start hanging footless on the big red slop- er. Campus up & left to a fat pinch, then again to the lip. True sit start (on lower holds) is about V6.
John Palmer, 2006
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Tricky | V5 |
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Start as for One Trick Pony but head right then up on pleasant slopers.
John Palmer, 2007
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Vision Thing | V7 |
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Largely superseded by Thor’s Hammer.
Sit start left of the big red sloper on Tricky, with hands on a big pinch and a sharp sidepull crimp. Pull on, snatch the red sloper & campus match (unless you’ve used the unapproved heel hook beta). Head right as per Tricky but carry on along the lip of the cave until you reach a big crack. Exit up.
John Palmer, 2008
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Splinter | V7 |
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Better than it looks. Climb the horizontal roof at the seaward end of the Martini Roof from two underclings in the obvious crack. A devious sequence with double toe jams seems to be the key. No dabs!
John Palmer, 2008
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This place appears in
UUID:
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