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Martini Roof 21

Type
Part of

The amazing horizontal roof has no (solid) holds on it, but makes a good pad stash.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Dicky, V1 V1 0m
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V1

Sit start left of Brassneck and traverse along the lip of the roof on jugs, then head up above One Trick Pony.


2 2Tricky Dicky, V6 V6 0m
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

Link Dicky into Tricky via a burly dropdown onto the big red sloper. Comprehensively superseded by Thor’s Hammer.


3 3Brassneck, V8 V8 0m
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

One of the lowest problems at the Rak! Sit start on the low roof, right hand on a good edge and left hand in a shallow dish. Pull up (crux) and lunge left to a good rail. Exit up on good holds (beware the dab).


4 4Thor’s Hammer, V9 V9 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V9

Start sitting as for Brassneck. Throw left hand up and over to a smooth sloper. Staying below lip, traverse right using a chipped hold and some great slopers to the big red sloper. Finish along Vision Thing. A pumper.


5 5Loki The Trickster, V8 V8 0m
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V8

Thor’s Hammer Lite! As for that problem but finish up Tricky.


6 6One Trick Pony, V5 V5 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start hanging footless on the big red sloper. Campus up and left to a fat pinch, then again to the lip. True sit start (on lower holds) is about V6.


7 7Tricky, V5 V5 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

Start as for One Trick Pony but head right then up on pleasant slopers.


8 8Vision Thing, V7 V7 0m
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Largely superseded by Thor’s Hammer. Sit start left of the big red sloper on Tricky, with hands on a big pinch and a sharp sidepull crimp. Pull on, snatch the red sloper and campus match (unless you’ve used the unapproved heel hook beta). Head right as per Tricky but carry on along the lip of the cave until you reach a big crack. Exit up.


9 9Splinter, V7 V7 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

Better than it looks. Climb the horizontal roof at the seaward end of the Martini Roof from two underclings in the obvious crack. A devious sequence with double toe jams seems to be the key. No dabs!


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