na
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North West

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Peanut Slab | 15 | 15m |
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20 m right of “The Spring”. Start from the large ledge around on the right ( a direct start to the
climb would be very hard indeed). Sports two fixed pegs and two naked bolts and one fixed
thread runner. There is also a sling placement high on the climb. A little dirty now a days.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 25-9-83
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More Oh | 16 | 20m |
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Climb the slab and corner using the wiggly crack for pro. Wide all the way to the crux near the
top , with an airy finish. A little over grown.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 11-9-83
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Fancy Free | 18 | 10m |
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20m right is a hedgeline. Some 70m right of this, Two thirds of the way to the next fence, is a
right facing corner with an obvious horizontal break on the left wall.
Starting form the sloping ledge at the base, climb the crack, which runs from knifeblade to #4
Friend. There is a fixed peg at the crux. A nice climb on good rock.
Bryce Martin, Phil Roberts 9/3/85
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Aids Climbing | 21 | 20m |
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The crack line 5m right of Fancy Free. The crux is where the crack turns into a right hand
horizontal break, climb straight up past a peg and a bolt. Three bolts and a peg plus the crack
takes wires and smallish friends.
Jim Walseth, Joe Kippax
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Tree Crack | 15 | 10m |
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20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and
poplars lines.
A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner:
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Tree Crack | 15 | 10m |
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20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and
poplars lines.
A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
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Undecided | 16 | 12m |
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Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A varied finger to fist crack, with lots of pocks on the walls. A classic Piarere corner. Soft rock
and green, what more could you want.
Heiz Jackob, John Carter, Phil Clifton 5-7-80.
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The Green Slime Climb | 10 | 10m |
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The chimney immediately to the right has been climbed believe it or not. A grooty chimney.
Rick McGregor 28-7-74.
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Ruiseart | 22 | 12m |
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10m right is another hedge, and a 50m right of this (directly opposite a swimming pool beside
the house , though some distance away) is a descent gully. Immediately to the right is a wall
with two thin cracks. Climb the right hand crack. The overhang at half height provides the crux. Finish (what else)
up to a large gum tree.
Rick McGregor 6-7-80.
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Bill’s Climb | 16 | 15m |
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Some 30m right is a large chimney with a 4m high block at its base. The buttress on the left
has a honeycombed appearance. Climb up on the left to a ledge, and continue up the chimney . The buttress on the left has a
honeycombed appearance.
Bill Atkinson, Rick McGregor 10-11-74
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Grub’s Chimney | 14 | 12m |
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30m right (behind the barn) and behind a prominent buttress is another chimney. Entered from the right past a pittosporum. The crux is at the top, getting onto the ledge at the
top of the buttress. Protectionless and decent is by jumping off.
Len Gillman (solo) 28-7-74
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Fatlip | 16 | 12m |
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Jam the crack curving leftwards at the top.
John Carter, Phil Clifton, Heinz Jakob 5-7-80
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Piarere Revisited | 16 | 12m |
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Left of Painkiller, and left of the next fence is an obvious chimney, left of this is another chimney
with a horizontal break and hand crack leading to the top. Climb the chimney , hand traverse
right, then finish up the hand crack.
Grant Pearson , Jim Napier 29-3-91
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Painkiller | 19 | 15m |
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A thin crack widening above. Tape you hands for this sharp little problem.
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Junction Crack | 16 | 15m |
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50m right is a hedge row, immediately right is a buttress with a chimney system inside it. If
you are climbing the lines in this area you can gain access to the area by turning left at the old
cow shed and barn then after the first hedge row cross the paddock to the lines of Piarere
Corner and The Crucifix. Been described as a excellent route if you are into chimneys.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin 7-12-75
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Brinderwin | 20 | 15m |
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3m right is an obvious right facing corner. Climb the fist crack from the low shelf. There used to be a horizontal tree near the top but
Robbie McBirney showing off bouncing on it one day dislodged it and along with all his pro hit
the deck.
Rick Mcgregor, Robbie McBirney, Len Gillman 17-8-75
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Piarere Corner | 19 | 15m |
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15m to the right is an overhanging left facing corner with pine tree roots reaching into the
upper crack. The hard overhanging start leads to easier climbing . Finishes at a large pine tree. A classic
climb.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974.
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Edwardian Ploy | 21 | 15m |
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A good climb just right of Piarere Corner. Sports 2 fixed pegs with the crux unfortunately just
below the first one.
Bryce Martin , Phil Roberts 9-3.85.
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Unknown Route (??) | 15m |
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Some 15m right is “The Crucifix”. Climb the left facing corner past 2 pegs then continue up crack above, typical Piarere finish
corner.
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The Crucifix | 20 | 20m |
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A cross shaped formation . A narrow U-groove with a finger to hand crack in the back. A nice
climb.
Rick Mc Gregor, Bryce Martin 25-6-83.
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Senility Beckons | 18 | 15m |
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10m right is a crack with a cockstone. A fist crack, rapidly closing off then reopening to hands with a cockstone to negotiate at the top
of a short pillar-box chimney. A companion climb to Bryce’s route Childhoods End at
Whanganui and a personal statement.
Bryce Martin, Rick McGregor 25-06-83
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Immortality | 19 | 12m |
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20m right is another fenceline, then another 40m across some boggy ground and past the
powerlines is a free standing pillar. On the front of this is one of the best climbs at Piarere. A fine face line up a steep groove in the middle of the pillar. Well protected by three bolts , but
little run out above the last bolt. Abseil/belay off.
Phils Roberts , Bryce Martin 24-5-85
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Bambi Meets Godzilla | 18 | 12m |
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This one take the reddish arete to the left of the Immortality. There’s 3 bolts , and fixed anchors
on the pillar top. (see Immortality)
Joe Kippax , Dan Hawthorn, Bryce Martin 28-5-89.
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Atom Heart Mother | 19 | 15m |
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10m right is a steep black and yellow wall with two crack/groove. The right hand decimetre
wide crack/groove. A few slab moves to start, then into the crack. A tube is useful to protect some committing
moves at half height, and wires at the top. You need to go some distance back at the top for a
decent belay.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin, Peter Newton 4-4-76.
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Stingbeans And Spyrogyra | 17 | 15m |
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To quote Grant “this is a fun varied climb on solid rock”. Jam through the bulge to ledges and
layback /bridge the crack/corner above, stepping right and up at the top”. Go some distance
back at the top into the larger scrub for a good belay.
Grant Davidson, Graeme Aimer, Bev Smith June 1982
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Combat Rock | 16 | 6m |
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Some 100m to the right is another fence, and 20m to the right across a boggy ground and a
wee creek is an orange steep slab. Avoid the creek at the floor of the slab. Start on the right and climb delicately up the slab past
one bolt a 2/3 height . Its easier to start on the left and traverse right below the bolt. If you
fall clipping the bolt the landing is soft, but don’t drown!
Grant Pearson, Shane Mahon 8/11/88
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UUID:
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