Climbs to the Right of The Spring

20 m right of “The Spring”. Start from the large ledge around on the right ( a direct start to the climb would be very hard indeed). Sports two fixed pegs and two naked bolts and one fixed thread runner. There is also a sling placement high on the climb. A little dirty now a days.

Climb the slab and corner using the wiggly crack for pro. Wide all the way to the crux near the top , with an airy finish. A little over grown.

20m right is a hedgeline. Some 70m right of this, Two thirds of the way to the next fence, is a right facing corner with an obvious horizontal break on the left wall. Starting form the sloping ledge at the base, climb the crack, which runs from knifeblade to #4 Friend. There is a fixed peg at the crux. A nice climb on good rock.

The crack line 5m right of Fancy Free. The crux is where the crack turns into a right hand horizontal break, climb straight up past a peg and a bolt. Three bolts and a peg plus the crack takes wires and smallish friends. Jim Walseth, Joe Kippax

20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner:

20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.

Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A varied finger to fist crack, with lots of pocks on the walls. A classic Piarere corner. Soft rock and green, what more could you want.

The chimney immediately to the right has been climbed believe it or not. A grotty chimney.

10m right is another hedge, and a 50m right of this (directly opposite a swimming pool beside the house , though some distance away) is a descent gully. Immediately to the right is a wall with two thin cracks. Climb the right hand crack. The overhang at half height provides the crux. Finish (what else) up to a large gum tree.

Some 30m right is a large chimney with a 4m high block at its base. The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance. Climb up on the left to a ledge, and continue up the chimney . The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance.

30m right (behind the barn) and behind a prominent buttress is another chimney. Entered from the right past a pittosporum. The crux is at the top, getting onto the ledge at the top of the buttress. Protectionless and decent is by jumping off.

Jam the crack curving leftwards at the top.

Left of Painkiller, and left of the next fence is an obvious chimney, left of this is another chimney with a horizontal break and hand crack leading to the top. Climb the chimney , hand traverse right, then finish up the hand crack.

A thin crack widening above. Tape you hands for this sharp little problem.

50m right is a hedge row, immediately right is a buttress with a chimney system inside it. If you are climbing the lines in this area you can gain access to the area by turning left at the old cow shed and barn then after the first hedge row cross the paddock to the lines of Piarere Corner and The Crucifix. Been described as a excellent route if you are into chimneys.

3m right is an obvious right facing corner. Climb the fist crack from the low shelf. There used to be a horizontal tree near the top but Robbie McBirney showing off bouncing on it one day dislodged it and along with all his pro hit the deck.

15m to the right is an overhanging left facing corner with pine tree roots reaching into the upper crack. The hard overhanging start leads to easier climbing . Finishes at a large pine tree. A classic climb.

A good climb just right of Piarere Corner. Sports 2 fixed pegs with the crux unfortunately just below the first one.

Some 15m right is “The Crucifix”. Climb the left facing corner past 2 pegs then continue up crack above, typical Piarere finish corner.

A cross shaped formation . A narrow U-groove with a finger to hand crack in the back. A nice climb.

10m right is a crack with a cockstone. A fist crack, rapidly closing off then reopening to hands with a cockstone to negotiate at the top of a short pillar-box chimney. A companion climb to Bryce’s route Childhoods End at Whanganui and a personal statement.

To the right, 20m, is another fenceline, then another 40m across boggy ground and past the powerlines is a freestanding pillar. On the front of this is one of the best climbs at Piarere. A fine face line up a steep groove in the middle of the pillar. Well protected by three bolts, but a little run out above the last bolt. Abseil/belay off.

This one take the reddish arete to the left of the Immortality. There’s 3 bolts , and fixed anchors on the pillar top. (see Immortality)

10m right is a steep black and yellow wall with two crack/groove. The right hand decimetre wide crack/groove. A few slab moves to start, then into the crack. A tube is useful to protect some committing moves at half height, and wires at the top. You need to go some distance back at the top for a decent belay.

To quote Grant “this is a fun varied climb on solid rock”. Jam through the bulge to ledges and layback /bridge the crack/corner above, stepping right and up at the top”. Go some distance back at the top into the larger scrub for a good belay.

Some 100m to the right is another fence, and 20m to the right across a boggy ground and a wee creek is an orange steep slab. Avoid the creek at the floor of the slab. Start on the right and climb delicately up the slab past one bolt a 2/3 height . Its easier to start on the left and traverse right below the bolt. If you fall clipping the bolt the landing is soft, but don’t drown!