Climbs to the Right of The Spring

(26 routes)

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Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Peanut Slab 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
20 m right of “The Spring”. Start from the large ledge around on the right ( a direct start to the climb would be very hard indeed). Sports two fixed pegs and two naked bolts and one fixed thread runner. There is also a sling placement high on the climb. A little dirty now a days.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 25-9-83
More Oh 16 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the slab and corner using the wiggly crack for pro. Wide all the way to the crux near the top , with an airy finish. A little over grown.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin, 11-9-83
Fancy Free 18 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
20m right is a hedgeline. Some 70m right of this, Two thirds of the way to the next fence, is a right facing corner with an obvious horizontal break on the left wall. Starting form the sloping ledge at the base, climb the crack, which runs from knifeblade to #4 Friend. There is a fixed peg at the crux. A nice climb on good rock.
Bryce Martin, Phil Roberts 9/3/85
Aids Climbing 21 20m
0
wire representing trad
The crack line 5m right of Fancy Free. The crux is where the crack turns into a right hand horizontal break, climb straight up past a peg and a bolt. Three bolts and a peg plus the crack takes wires and smallish friends. Jim Walseth, Joe Kippax
Tree Crack 15 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner:
Tree Crack 15 10m
1.02
wire representing trad
20m right is another fence line 200m to the right and behind a small stand of gums and poplars lines. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up. Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A hand crack which gets its name from a tree growing out of it a third of the way up.
Undecided 16 12m
0
wire representing trad
Immediately right in the back of a groove is a right-facing corner. A varied finger to fist crack, with lots of pocks on the walls. A classic Piarere corner. Soft rock and green, what more could you want.
Heiz Jackob, John Carter, Phil Clifton 5-7-80.
The Green Slime Climb 10 10m
0
The chimney immediately to the right has been climbed believe it or not. A grooty chimney.
Rick McGregor 28-7-74.
Ruiseart 22 12m
1.02
wire representing trad
10m right is another hedge, and a 50m right of this (directly opposite a swimming pool beside the house , though some distance away) is a descent gully. Immediately to the right is a wall with two thin cracks. Climb the right hand crack. The overhang at half height provides the crux. Finish (what else) up to a large gum tree.
Rick McGregor 6-7-80.
Bill’s Climb 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
Some 30m right is a large chimney with a 4m high block at its base. The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance. Climb up on the left to a ledge, and continue up the chimney . The buttress on the left has a honeycombed appearance.
Bill Atkinson, Rick McGregor 10-11-74
Grub’s Chimney 14 12m
0
wire representing trad
30m right (behind the barn) and behind a prominent buttress is another chimney. Entered from the right past a pittosporum. The crux is at the top, getting onto the ledge at the top of the buttress. Protectionless and decent is by jumping off.
Len Gillman (solo) 28-7-74
Fatlip 16 12m
0
wire representing trad
Jam the crack curving leftwards at the top.
John Carter, Phil Clifton, Heinz Jakob 5-7-80
Piarere Revisited 16 12m
0
wire representing trad
Left of Painkiller, and left of the next fence is an obvious chimney, left of this is another chimney with a horizontal break and hand crack leading to the top. Climb the chimney , hand traverse right, then finish up the hand crack.
Grant Pearson , Jim Napier 29-3-91
Painkiller 19 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
A thin crack widening above. Tape you hands for this sharp little problem.
Junction Crack 16 15m
0
wire representing trad
50m right is a hedge row, immediately right is a buttress with a chimney system inside it. If you are climbing the lines in this area you can gain access to the area by turning left at the old cow shed and barn then after the first hedge row cross the paddock to the lines of Piarere Corner and The Crucifix. Been described as a excellent route if you are into chimneys.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin 7-12-75
Brinderwin 20 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
3m right is an obvious right facing corner. Climb the fist crack from the low shelf. There used to be a horizontal tree near the top but Robbie McBirney showing off bouncing on it one day dislodged it and along with all his pro hit the deck.
Rick Mcgregor, Robbie McBirney, Len Gillman 17-8-75
Piarere Corner 19 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
15m to the right is an overhanging left facing corner with pine tree roots reaching into the upper crack. The hard overhanging start leads to easier climbing . Finishes at a large pine tree. A classic climb.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974.
Edwardian Ploy 21 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
A good climb just right of Piarere Corner. Sports 2 fixed pegs with the crux unfortunately just below the first one.
Bryce Martin , Phil Roberts 9-3.85.
Unknown Route (??) 15m
0
wire representing trad
Some 15m right is “The Crucifix”. Climb the left facing corner past 2 pegs then continue up crack above, typical Piarere finish corner.
The Crucifix 20 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
A cross shaped formation . A narrow U-groove with a finger to hand crack in the back. A nice climb.
Rick Mc Gregor, Bryce Martin 25-6-83.
Senility Beckons 18 15m
0
wire representing trad
10m right is a crack with a cockstone. A fist crack, rapidly closing off then reopening to hands with a cockstone to negotiate at the top of a short pillar-box chimney. A companion climb to Bryce’s route Childhoods End at Whanganui and a personal statement.
Bryce Martin, Rick McGregor 25-06-83
Immortality 19 12m
1.02
20m right is another fenceline, then another 40m across some boggy ground and past the powerlines is a free standing pillar. On the front of this is one of the best climbs at Piarere. A fine face line up a steep groove in the middle of the pillar. Well protected by three bolts , but little run out above the last bolt. Abseil/belay off.
Phils Roberts , Bryce Martin 24-5-85
Bambi Meets Godzilla 18 12m
1.02
wire representing trad
This one take the reddish arete to the left of the Immortality. There’s 3 bolts , and fixed anchors on the pillar top. (see Immortality)
Joe Kippax , Dan Hawthorn, Bryce Martin 28-5-89.
Atom Heart Mother 19 15m
0
wire representing trad
10m right is a steep black and yellow wall with two crack/groove. The right hand decimetre wide crack/groove. A few slab moves to start, then into the crack. A tube is useful to protect some committing moves at half height, and wires at the top. You need to go some distance back at the top for a decent belay.
Rick McGregor, Bryce Martin, Peter Newton 4-4-76.
Stingbeans And Spyrogyra 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
To quote Grant “this is a fun varied climb on solid rock”. Jam through the bulge to ledges and layback /bridge the crack/corner above, stepping right and up at the top”. Go some distance back at the top into the larger scrub for a good belay.
Grant Davidson, Graeme Aimer, Bev Smith June 1982
Combat Rock 16 6m
0
wire representing trad
Some 100m to the right is another fence, and 20m to the right across a boggy ground and a wee creek is an orange steep slab. Avoid the creek at the floor of the slab. Start on the right and climb delicately up the slab past one bolt a 2/3 height . Its easier to start on the left and traverse right below the bolt. If you fall clipping the bolt the landing is soft, but don’t drown!
Grant Pearson, Shane Mahon 8/11/88
UUID: 
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