Climbs to the Left of the Spring

(21 routes)

The climbs are described from left to right, opposite to the approach.
The obvious chimney system above. The spring remains unclimbed . It could offer good
caving , I mean climbing, but watch for the possible loose rock.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Visions of Rolling Doughnuts 17 10m
0
wire representing trad
50m left of the Prow. An S-shaped hand to fist crack in the middle of a steep wall with a small roof at third height. From the ledge , fist jams lead through the roof (crux). The crack above widens and the curves as the face leans back. Tape up your arm, this bites!
Dave Garrity, Pete Manning 6-5-84.
Overcammed 17 15m
0
wire representing trad
The second crack to the right of The Prow. Some jamming, some Offwidth. A poor line broken by large ledges.
John Goulstone, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
The Prow 22 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
300m left of the Pinnacle and wall worth the walk. Hidden in the grove of a mahoe trees but impossible to miss. (However I have yet to find it..Cliff) A tight handcrack running up the middle of the Prow. – a narrow protruding arete. There is a small cabbage tree at the top of the climb. The rock is soft in the middle of the climb but it is easy jamming country. The crux is the top vertical section which is on reasonably good rock.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 14-8-83.
Blood of a Lamb 18 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
50m left of "The Pinnacle" is an obvious right facing corner broken at half height by a large ledge on the right hand side. Thorn bush at base. A nice clean corner that just begs to be climbed. Layback and bridge to the ledge on good rock, then jam to the top.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 25-9-83
The Pinnacle 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
50m left of a stream is a hedge row. 10m or so further left is an obvious leaning pinnacle. Climbed by the slab on the back. There is an abseil bolt in place but I suggest you back it up as it’s been there along time.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974.
Late Nites 15 8m
1.02
wire representing trad
Immediately left of " Dai Thrytchyn" and just around the corner, before the ditch , is a pretty slab on the side of a boulder. Climb up the middle of the slab past one bolt, step left at the second bolt. A pleasant route for beginners. Either climb down the back of the boulder to a ledge and then jump into the leafy gully , or wait at the top to be rescued by a fireman.
John Pawsons, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
Dai Thrytchyn 15 8m
1.02
wire representing trad
A short steep right-facing corner with a thorn bush at the base. Climb the hand crack. This route finishes on a small grassy knoll. Descent by jumping off the ledge on the other side into a gully full of dead leaves.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974
Ice Cream Jimme 17 12m
0
wire representing trad
A right facing corner. Jam and bridge the corner. The crack widens to offwidth in the top section. Take care with the loose flake which forms one wall of the crack at mid height.
Phil Clifton, Heinz Jackob 6-7-80
Yo Gotta Say Yes (to another excess) 10 10m
0
wire representing trad
The chimney 1m right of the “Ice Cream Jimmie”
Dave Smith (solo) 2-5-87
Short Crack 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
50m left of fence/hedgerow. A short climb with a long description. The description is the crux. A crack of about knee and shoulder width in a corner. Climb this for some 3m to a large grassy ledge leading off to the right. A wider chimney leads up from here behind a stout pinnacle detached from the main face. Climb this to a spike, then left along a sharp level rib a metre or so and awkwardly up the crack/chimney to the top of the four boulder in a row (??). Descend down the same crack but at the back. .
Rick McGregor (solo) 10-11-74
Middle Earth 19 12m
0
wire representing trad
Some 25m left and before the fence is an inset box like groove with an overhang top. The orangey prominent left facing corner. Strenuous face moves lead to fingerlocks then to earthly jams. The crux is the overhanging offwidth at the top. The bolts were added sometime later by someone believing they were preparing a new route. Twit!
Bryce Martin John Pawson 7-8-83
When The Wind Blows 17 10m
0
wire representing trad
A large rib with a hole through it near the top. Tight hands and bridging near the top , all on good rock.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83.
Bronchial Wheeze 18 12m
0
wire representing trad
A hard start, then easy but deep jamming to the top.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83.
Escapee From Suburbia 18 12m
0
wire representing trad
Behind a small clump of cabbage trees is a crack system. Jam, bridge and wheeze to the ledge. Jamming the curving crack system at the top is the crux. Nice moves.
John Pawson, Bryce Martin 15-7-83
Black Crow 19 15m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the twin cracks. Jam the right hand of the two cracks till it’s possible to bridge across to the left. The crux is the overhanging tight hand section in the middle. The chimney at the top is almost OK.
Closed Shop 22
1.02
wire representing trad
On the left side of the gut is a deep right-facing corner. Layback and stem off fingerlocks to the roof. Jam around an up the exit crack (crux) to the top. The rock , like the climbing , improves the higher one gets. Unlike most Piarere climbs this finish is not offwidth. A classy climb.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 7-8-83.
If Dogs Run Free 19 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
Up a little way on the right-hand side of the gut. Back and knee fingerlock/jam to the roof, which is the crux. The interest however is provided by the hand traverse out right on good fingerlocks (there is a #5 or #6 Rock placement halfway). At the end of the traverse right on the top of the crag is a 2 ½ fried placement “If dogs run free, why not we”- Bob Dylan.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 11-9-83.
Earth Closet 19 15m
0
wire representing trad
Fingerlock to the roof, jam above. Easy bridging at the top avoids the chimney. The crux is pulling over the roof.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83
Forward Play 19 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
A steep straight, hand crack. Tight hands, then the obligatory offwidth /chimney section near the top. Previously attempted by Gillman and Martin in 1980. This climb still sees occasional failures, however the crux is low down.
Bryce Martin , Dave Garrity 15-7-83
Gateway 18 22m
1.02
wire representing trad
An unmistakable line. The Huge massive crack is not as easy or as straightforward as it looks. Don’t be put off by the top section as it is pleasant back and footing. A good climb , worth doing.
John Goulstone, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
Power Without The Glory V3
0
Immediately left of The Spring is the fine boulder problem. Climbs the roof crack from near the left hand side of the fence.
Bryce Martin (solo) 15-7-83