The climbs are described from left to right, opposite to the approach.
The obvious chimney system above. The spring remains unclimbed . It could offer good
caving , I mean climbing, but watch for the possible loose rock.
Type:
Wall

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Visions of Rolling Doughnuts | 17 | 10m |
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50m left of the Prow. An S-shaped hand to fist crack in the middle of a steep wall with a small roof at third height.
From the ledge , fist jams lead through the roof (crux). The crack above widens and the curves
as the face leans back. Tape up your arm, this bites!
Dave Garrity, Pete Manning 6-5-84.
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Overcammed | 17 | 15m |
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The second crack to the right of The Prow. Some jamming, some Offwidth. A poor line broken
by large ledges.
John Goulstone, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
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The Prow | 22 | 20m |
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300m left of the Pinnacle and wall worth the walk.
Hidden in the grove of a mahoe trees but impossible to miss. (However I have yet to find it..Cliff)
A tight handcrack running up the middle of the Prow. – a narrow protruding arete. There is a
small cabbage tree at the top of the climb. The rock is soft in the middle of the climb but it is
easy jamming country. The crux is the top vertical section which is on reasonably good rock.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 14-8-83.
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Blood of a Lamb | 18 | 20m |
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50m left of "The Pinnacle" is an obvious right facing corner broken at half height by a large ledge on the
right hand side. Thorn bush at base.
A nice clean corner that just begs to be climbed. Layback and bridge to the ledge on good rock,
then jam to the top.
Dave Garrity, Bryce Martin 25-9-83
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The Pinnacle | 16 | 10m |
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50m left of a stream is a hedge row. 10m or so further left is an obvious
leaning pinnacle.
Climbed by the slab on the back. There is an abseil bolt in place but I suggest you back it up
as it’s been there along time.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974.
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Late Nites | 15 | 8m |
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Immediately left of " Dai Thrytchyn" and just around the corner, before the ditch , is a pretty slab on the side of a
boulder. Climb up the middle of the slab past one bolt, step left at the second bolt. A pleasant route for
beginners. Either climb down the back of the boulder to a ledge and then jump into the leafy
gully , or wait at the top to be rescued by a fireman.
John Pawsons, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
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Dai Thrytchyn | 15 | 8m |
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A short steep right-facing corner with a thorn bush at the base.
Climb the hand crack. This route finishes on a small grassy knoll. Descent by jumping off the
ledge on the other side into a gully full of dead leaves.
Robbie McBirney, Cliff Smith 1974
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Ice Cream Jimme | 17 | 12m |
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A right facing corner. Jam and bridge the corner. The crack widens to offwidth in the top section. Take care with the
loose flake which forms one wall of the crack at mid height.
Phil Clifton, Heinz Jackob 6-7-80
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Yo Gotta Say Yes (to another excess) | 10 | 10m |
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The chimney 1m right of the “Ice Cream Jimmie”
Dave Smith (solo) 2-5-87
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Short Crack | 16 | 10m |
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50m left of fence/hedgerow. A short climb with a long description. The description is the crux. A crack of about knee and
shoulder width in a corner. Climb this for some 3m to a large grassy ledge leading off to the
right. A wider chimney leads up from here behind a stout pinnacle detached from the main
face. Climb this to a spike, then left along a sharp level rib a metre or so and awkwardly up the
crack/chimney to the top of the four boulder in a row (??). Descend down the same crack but
at the back.
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Rick McGregor (solo) 10-11-74
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Middle Earth | 19 | 12m |
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Some 25m left and before the fence is an inset box like groove with an overhang top. The
orangey prominent left facing corner. Strenuous face moves lead to fingerlocks then to earthly jams. The crux is the overhanging
offwidth at the top. The bolts were added sometime later by someone believing they were
preparing a new route. Twit!
Bryce Martin John Pawson 7-8-83
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When The Wind Blows | 17 | 10m |
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A large rib with a hole through it near the top. Tight hands and bridging near the top , all on good rock.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83.
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Bronchial Wheeze | 18 | 12m |
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A hard start, then easy but deep jamming to the top.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83.
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Escapee From Suburbia | 18 | 12m |
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Behind a small clump of cabbage trees is a crack system.
Jam, bridge and wheeze to the ledge. Jamming the curving crack system at the top is the crux.
Nice moves.
John Pawson, Bryce Martin 15-7-83
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Black Crow | 19 | 15m |
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Climb the twin cracks. Jam the right hand of the two cracks till it’s possible to bridge across to the left. The crux is the
overhanging tight hand section in the middle. The chimney at the top is almost OK.
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Closed Shop | 22 |
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On the left side of the gut is a deep right-facing corner. Layback and stem off fingerlocks to the roof. Jam around an up the exit crack (crux) to the top.
The rock , like the climbing , improves the higher one gets. Unlike most Piarere climbs this
finish is not offwidth. A classy climb.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 7-8-83.
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If Dogs Run Free | 19 | 20m |
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Up a little way on the right-hand side of the gut. Back and knee fingerlock/jam to the roof, which is the crux. The interest however is provided
by the hand traverse out right on good fingerlocks (there is a #5 or #6 Rock placement halfway).
At the end of the traverse right on the top of the crag is a 2 ½ fried placement “If dogs run free,
why not we”- Bob Dylan.
Bryce Martin, John Pawson 11-9-83.
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Earth Closet | 19 | 15m |
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Fingerlock to the roof, jam above. Easy bridging at the top avoids the chimney. The crux is
pulling over the roof.
Bryce Martin, Dave Garrity 30-7-83
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Forward Play | 19 | 20m |
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A steep straight, hand crack. Tight hands, then the obligatory offwidth /chimney section near the top. Previously attempted
by Gillman and Martin in 1980. This climb still sees occasional failures, however the crux is
low down.
Bryce Martin , Dave Garrity 15-7-83
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Gateway | 18 | 22m |
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An unmistakable line. The Huge massive crack is not as easy or as straightforward as it looks. Don’t be put off by the
top section as it is pleasant back and footing. A good climb , worth doing.
John Goulstone, Bryce Martin 14-8-83.
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Power Without The Glory | V3 |
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Immediately left of The Spring
is the fine boulder problem. Climbs the roof crack from near the left hand side of the fence.
Bryce Martin (solo) 15-7-83
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