Take the Buck Rock summit track. Near the top you come across a clearing with a north facing buttress. A great little crag, with clean hard rock, that gets soaked in winter sun. From left to right.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Instant gratification, 21 | 21 | 15m | 6 |
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Climb the face to right of the left arte. At the top bolt, move onto the arête and up to the DBC belay on the top of the crag. 6 bolts. |
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| Fight or Flight, 24 | 24 | 15m | 6 |
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Climb the centre face of the face, at the 4th bolts move left and climb directly up the steep head wall (crux). DBC belay, 6 bolts. |
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| The Earl of Buckingham, 19 | 19 | 15m | 7 |
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The right hand line. Move right near top. 7 bolts BDC belay. |
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| Left Crack Route, 16 | 16 | 15m |  |
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The left crack line, Trad with belay on the summit ridge |
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| Right diagonal Crack Route, 16 | 16 | 10m | |
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The right crack line, Trad with belay on the summit ridge |
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| Renee, 20 | 20 | 12m | 5 |
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A small climb with a big view. Climb the buttress at the right hand end of the crag. On closer inspection this easy looking line overhangs 2 m. |
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| Wind Swept, 22 | 22 | 35m | 10 |
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The Summit South East Wall is further down the Buck Rock Summit track, just before the last steep climb to the summit crag, stay low and continue around the edge of the cliff. The main southeast face has a bush-covered cave at the base, on the far left-hand end.
Climb the short face and belay in the mouth of the cave. DBC belay.
From the cave move right pull onto the overhanging arete clip the bolt then power your way up (crux 1). The line continues up the face tending right, a difficult move to gain the top bolt (crux 2), then pull over the lip to a BDC belay. 35m abseil to ground! |
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Note that the Earl of Buckingham has 3rd and 4th bolt hangers with loose nuts. I hand tightened them as best as I could (19/04/23).
Summit crag access clarification - after following
up the buck rock track for 30mins or so (a bit further than the access to the main wall) orange track markers and tape appear on the left on some exposed tree roots. After following this billy goat track up the hill the path diverges to a lower track to a small cave and on the RIGHT following the markers to the Summit crag. The first 3 climbs encountered are pictured above. Lots of Gorse is currently growing so please take a hand saw and kill a few if you have the time to do so when heading up to the crag.