Take the Buck Rock summit track. Near the top you come across a clearing with a north facing buttress. A great little crag, with clean hard rock, that gets soaked in winter sun. From left to right.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Instant gratification | 21 | 15m |
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Climb the face to right of the left arte. At the top bolt, move onto the arête and up to the DBC belay on the top of the crag. 6 bolts.
Cliff Ellery September 2010
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| Fight or Flight | 24 | 15m |
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Climb the centre face of the face, at the 4th bolts move left and climb directly up the steep head wall (crux). DBC belay, 6 bolts.
Cliff Ellery Jan 2012
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| The Earl of Buckingham | 19 | 15m |
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The right hand line. Move right near top. 7 bolts BDC belay.
Cliff Ellery, Mark Ashurst, Brian Mercer, July 31 2011
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| Left Crack Route | 16 | 15m |
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The left crack line, Trad with belay on the summit ridge
Craig Miller, Sarah Painter 2000
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| Right diagonal Crack Route | 16 | 10m |
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The right crack line, Trad with belay on the summit ridge
Craig Miller, Sarah Painter 2000
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| Renee | 20 | 12m |
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A small climb with a big view. Climb the buttress at the right hand end of the crag. On closer inspection this easy looking line overhangs 2 m.
Cliff Ellery
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| Wind Swept | 18 ,22 | 35m |
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Summit South East Wall
Further down the Buck Rock Summit track, just before the last steep climb to
the summit crag, stay low and continue around the edge of the cliff. The main
south east face has a bush covered cave at the bass, on the far left hand end
Cliff Ellery & Rachael Mayne , July 2012.
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UUID:
e11cf88d-caaf-4bf8-92e7-afcb488b4961
Comments
Note that the Earl of
Note that the Earl of Buckingham has 3rd and 4th bolt hangers with loose nuts. I hand tightened them as best as I could (19/04/23).
Summit crag access clarification - after following
up the buck rock track for 30mins or so (a bit further than the access to the main wall) orange track markers and tape appear on the left on some exposed tree roots. After following this billy goat track up the hill the path diverges to a lower track to a small cave and on the RIGHT following the markers to the Summit crag. The first 3 climbs encountered are pictured above. Lots of Gorse is currently growing so please take a hand saw and kill a few if you have the time to do so when heading up to the crag.