Main Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1600m

Part of

The highest central section of the cliff is a moderate climber’s paradise, with long, airy trad and sport routes. Where trad belays are needed at the top, they're usually found well back from the edge of the cliff.

Aspect

East

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Nika Time, 14	14	45m		1.02
P1 14 45m Trad Start well left of the obvious rounded buttress (although the buttress has also been gained more directly). Once at the ledge at one-third height, move along it and get established on the buttress (crux). More fine climbing follows. Runners are reasonably tricky to arrange, and well spaced.
2	2Moko, 20	20	45m		3
P1 20 45m Trad Lines on a face. The best natural line of its grade in the North Island? In the wall right of the buttress is a large alcove. Make your way into this and then out again through the overhang. Follow a thin groove line above, just right of the buttress, to the top. Runners are small and fiddly; a challenging lead and definitely not your first route of this grade outside of the gym.
3	3Unknown , 19	19	15m	5	0
P1 19 15m 5 Start up the right edge of the alcove and make a tricky move right, across the wall above, on to the left arete of the Under Heavy Manners hole. Single bolt lower point.
4	4Crazy Baldheads, 17	17	40m		0
P1 17 40m Trad Climb between the two large rounded recesses, and up the wall above past two small round recesses.
5	5King In the Arena, 17	17	40m		0
P1 17 40m Trad Climb Crazy Baldheads on to the left edge of the hole and continue straight up on natural gear. Take cams to #3, wires to #9. Finishes at the same point as Crazy Baldheads.
6	6Under Heavy Manners, 17	17	35m	13	3
P1 17 35m 13 Retrobolted and, cough, worth it. Climb into the round hole, then out the right side and up the awesome, airy wall above. Can be done as two pitches with a belay in the hole, but much better as a single pitch.
7	7Fittest of the Fittest, 17	17	40m	7	0
P1 17 40m 7 Trad Climb into the hole, depart on the right and continue straight up a vague crack system on natural gear.
8	8Pride of the South, 20	20	45m	7	1.02
P1 20 25m 7 A strenuous beginning through the left end of the stepped overhang, then easing off to the belay. P2 19 20m 4 Trad Continue up the stunning top wall on fused rock. Take some cams.
9	9Scoopage, 17	17	45m		2.01
P1 17 25m Trad Sneak through the step in the overhangs, then up and right above them to belay on a small ledge right in the middle of the shield-like wall. P2 17 20m Trad Follow the stunning crack line to the very top, saving some juice for the end.
10	10Positively Volcanic, 18	18	45m	12	1.02
P1 18 45m 12 Ease your way between the two systems of overhangs. There is a double bolt belay on the sloping ledge at about 23m, but the route is better as a single pitch. Finish up the left side of the upper alcove.

Comments

This place appears in

Rock Deluxe North, 2013

Buy this guidebook

UUID

6c7df81a-172f-4743-a173-bab370d7c389