2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Tongariro
  5. Whakapapa Gorge
  6. Trenchtown Buttress

Trenchtown Buttress

(10 routes)

This large blocky wall is made of beautiful orange rock.

Altitude: 
1600m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Walk time: 
20 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Voluntarily Rogered 17 ,18 30m
2.01
 3bolts wire representing trad
Climb the wall, about 4m left of the vertical staircase that juts out from the lower wall. Three bolts, double bolt belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11712m3No
 

Climb the wall, about 4m left of the vertical staircase that juts out from the lower wall. Three bolts, double bolt belay.
21818mYes
 

Up the wall above, then move left below the overhangs and up around the arête to finish.
Mark Morrison, Tim Robertson
2 Excellent Soul Therapy 16 ,23 35m
3
 wire representing trad
Climb up immediately left of the staircase, to a double bolt belay. The rock formations on this pitch create interesting options for protection.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11615mYes
 

Climb up immediately left of the staircase, to a double bolt belay. The rock formations on this pitch create interesting options for protection.
22320mYes
 

Up the superb blocky wall, trending left through a bulging section at mid height. Take slings, cams to no 3, wires.
Tim Robertson, Mark Morrison
3 Ruffer Version 19 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb easily up the low-angle staircase jutting out from the lower wall, and continue directly up the wall above.
4 Trenchtown 10 40m
2.01
 wire representing trad
A superb and very exposed excursion. Begin up the rock staircase and continue rightwards up the trench to the top of the cliff. Good pro all the way. The bolt belay on Chocolate Coated Mammaries can be used to split the climb into two pitches.
5 Authorised Rockers 16 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Begin in the vague alcove right of the staircase, and head up and through the overhang just to the staircase’s right. Tackle the upper wall by trending left initially, then straightening up where the wall steepens.
6 Step It Up 14 35m
1.02
 wire representing trad
A magnificently exposed combination. Start up Trenchtown and skip across onto Authorised Rockers above its crux.
7 Chocolate Coated Mammaries 22 15m
2.01
 6bolts
Strenuous moves on huge brown chicken-head jugs through the middle of the lower wall, past six bolts. Double bolt belay above the overhang.
Paul Rogers
Blue Rinse 16 18m
0
 2bolts wire representing trad
This and the following two routes are on the upper right end of the wall where an obvious cave can be seen. Climb the wall left of The Scribbler. Mix of trad and two bolts, one of which may be loose. A bit mossy in places.
Tom Wilson February 2006
The Scribbler 14 18m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the arete or corner just left of the obvious cave.
Tom Wilson February 2006
Unamed 22 20m
0
 5bolts
Up the wall, through the cave and wall above.
Marcus Thomas February 2006

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UUID: 
52639d78-fbbf-441f-b8fb-698e1961edce