Trenchtown Buttress

Type

Sector

Altitude

1600m

Part of

Whakapapa Gorge

Walktime

20 min

Aspect

East

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Voluntarily Rogered, 18	18	30m	3	2.01
P1 17 12m 3 Climb the wall, about 4m left of the vertical staircase that juts out from the lower wall. Three bolts, double bolt belay. P2 18 18m Trad Up the wall above, then move left below the overhangs and up around the arête to finish.
2	2Excellent Soul Therapy, 23	23	35m		3
P1 16 15m Trad Climb up immediately left of the staircase, to a double bolt belay. The rock formations on this pitch create interesting options for protection. P2 23 20m Trad Up the superb blocky wall, trending left through a bulging section at mid height. Take slings, cams to no 3, wires.
3	3Ruffer Version, 19	19	35m		0
P1 19 35m Trad Climb easily up the low-angle staircase jutting out from the lower wall, and continue directly up the wall above.
4	4Trenchtown, 10	10	40m		2.01
P1 10 40m Trad A superb and very exposed excursion. Begin up the rock staircase and continue rightwards up the trench to the top of the cliff. Good pro all the way. The bolt belay on Chocolate Coated Mammaries can be used to split the climb into two pitches.
5	5Authorised Rockers, 16	16	35m		0
P1 16 35m Trad Begin in the vague alcove right of the staircase, and head up and through the overhang just to the staircase’s right. Tackle the upper wall by trending left initially, then straightening up where the wall steepens.
6	6Step It Up, 14	14	35m		1.02
P1 14 35m Trad A magnificently exposed combination. Start up Trenchtown and skip across onto Authorised Rockers above its crux.
7	7Chocolate Coated Mammaries, 22	22	15m	6	2.01
P1 22 15m 6 Strenuous moves on huge brown chicken-head jugs through the middle of the lower wall, past six bolts. Double bolt belay above the overhang.
	Blue Rinse, 16	16	18m	2	0
P1 16 18m 2 Trad This and the following two routes are on the upper right end of the wall where an obvious cave can be seen. Climb the wall left of The Scribbler. Mix of trad and two bolts, one of which may be loose. A bit mossy in places.
	The Scribbler, 14	14	18m		0
P1 14 18m Trad Climb the arete or corner just left of the obvious cave.
	Unamed, 22	22	20m	5	0
P1 22 20m 5 Up the wall, through the cave and wall above.

UUID

52639d78-fbbf-441f-b8fb-698e1961edce