Main Wall

(10 routes)

The highest central section of the cliff, to the right of the mossy drainage channel, has mostly two-pitch naturally protected routes at moderate grades. Suitable belays are usually found well back from the top of the cliff.

Altitude: 
1600m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
East
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Nika Time 14 45m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start well left of the obvious rounded buttress (although the buttress has also been gained more directly). Once at the ledge at one-third height, move along it and get established on the buttress (crux). More fine climbing follows. Runners are reasonably tricky to arrange, and well spaced.
Paul Rogers
2 Moko 20 45m
3
wire representing trad
Lines on a face. The best natural line of its grade in the North Island? In the wall right of the buttress is a large alcove. Make your way into this and then out again through the overhang. Follow a thin groove line above, just right of the buttress, to the top. Runners are small and fiddly; a challenging lead and definitely not your first route of this grade outside of the gym.
Paul Rogers
3 Crazy Baldheads 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
Climb between the two large rounded recesses, and up the wall above past two small round recesses.
4 King In the Arena 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
Climb Under Heavy Manners to the hole, then take the left edge of the hole and continue straight up on natural gear. cams to no 3, wires to no 9. Finishes at the same point as Crazy Baldheads.
Paul Rogers
5 Under Heavy Manners 15 ,17 40m
2.01
8bolts wire representing trad
Originally climbed on natural gear, but information about the early routes was scarce and the bolts were placed in the mistaken belief that this was a new route.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11515mYes
 Begin below the round hole in the middle of the wall, and climb straight up and into it.
21725m8No
 Depart from the round hole on the right, and continue upwards following the line of bolts, staying right of a vague crack system. The anchors on this route have no chains or lower-offs, just hangers.
Paul Rogers
6 Fittest of the Fittest 17 40m
0
wire representing trad
Shares the same start as the last two routes, then depart from the hole on the right and continue straight up a vague crack system on natural gear, cutting back left at the top to the same finish as Under Heavy Manners.
7 Pride of the South 20 ,19 45m
1.02
11bolts wire representing trad
A strenuous beginning through the left end of the stepped overhang, then easing off to the belay. Seven bolts to a double bolt belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
12025m7No
 A strenuous beginning through the left end of the stepped overhang, then easing off to the belay. Seven bolts to a double bolt belay.
21920m4Yes
 Take cams to 2.5, and 4 bolts.
Mark Morrison, Tim Robertson
8 Scoopage 17 ,17 45m
2.01
wire representing trad
Sneak through the step in the overhangs, then up and right above them to belay on a small ledge right in the middle of the shield-like wall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11725mYes
 Sneak through the step in the overhangs, then up and right above them to belay on a small ledge right in the middle of the shield-like wall.
21720mYes
 The line of weakness, straight to the top. A great finale.
Paul Rogers
9 Positively Volcanic 18 45m
1.02
12bolts
Finds its way between the two systems of overhangs. 12 bolts to the top. Double bolts at the ninth clip to lower off, at about 23m up, but better as a single pitch.
Paul Rogers
10 Authorised Version 18 45m
1.02
wire representing trad
Begin at the left end of the next major section of overhangs. There are good mid-size cams in the overhang. Continue up a slight weakness in the wall above.
Paul Rogers