Main Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1600m

Part of

The highest central section of the cliff, to the right of the mossy drainage channel, has mostly two-pitch naturally protected routes at moderate grades. Suitable belays are usually found well back from the top of the cliff.

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Nika Time, 14	14	45m		1.02
P1 14 45m Trad Start well left of the obvious rounded buttress (although the buttress has also been gained more directly). Once at the ledge at one-third height, move along it and get established on the buttress (crux). More fine climbing follows. Runners are reasonably tricky to arrange, and well spaced.
2	2Moko, 20	20	45m		3
P1 20 45m Trad Lines on a face. The best natural line of its grade in the North Island? In the wall right of the buttress is a large alcove. Make your way into this and then out again through the overhang. Follow a thin groove line above, just right of the buttress, to the top. Runners are small and fiddly; a challenging lead and definitely not your first route of this grade outside of the gym.
3	3Crazy Baldheads, 17	17	40m		0
P1 17 40m Trad Climb between the two large rounded recesses, and up the wall above past two small round recesses.
4	4King In the Arena, 17	17	40m		0
P1 17 40m Trad Climb Under Heavy Manners to the hole, then take the left edge of the hole and continue straight up on natural gear. cams to no 3, wires to no 9. Finishes at the same point as Crazy Baldheads.
5	5Under Heavy Manners, 17	17	40m	8	2.01
Originally climbed on natural gear, but information about the early routes was scarce and the bolts were placed in the mistaken belief that this was a new route. P1 15 15m Trad Begin below the round hole in the middle of the wall, and climb straight up and into it. P2 17 25m 8 Depart from the round hole on the right, and continue upwards following the line of bolts, staying right of a vague crack system. The anchors on this route have no chains or lower-offs, just hangers.
6	6Fittest of the Fittest, 17	17	40m		0
P1 17 40m Trad Shares the same start as the last two routes, then depart from the hole on the right and continue straight up a vague crack system on natural gear, cutting back left at the top to the same finish as Under Heavy Manners.
7	7Pride of the South, 20	20	45m	7	1.02
P1 20 25m 7 A strenuous beginning through the left end of the stepped overhang, then easing off to the belay. Seven bolts to a double bolt belay. P2 19 20m 4 Trad Take cams to 2.5, and 4 bolts.
8	8Scoopage, 17	17	45m		2.01
P1 17 25m Trad Sneak through the step in the overhangs, then up and right above them to belay on a small ledge right in the middle of the shield-like wall. P2 17 20m Trad The line of weakness, straight to the top. A great finale.
9	9Positively Volcanic, 18	18	45m	12	1.02
P1 18 45m 12 Finds its way between the two systems of overhangs. 12 bolts to the top. Double bolts at the ninth clip to lower off, at about 23m up, but better as a single pitch.
10	10Authorised Version, 18	18	45m		1.02
P1 18 45m Trad Begin at the left end of the next major section of overhangs. There are good mid-size cams in the overhang. Continue up a slight weakness in the wall above.

Comments

UUID

6c7df81a-172f-4743-a173-bab370d7c389