The highest central section of the cliff, to the right of the mossy drainage channel, has mostly two-pitch naturally protected routes at moderate grades. Suitable belays are usually found well back from the top of the cliff.
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1 | Nika Time | 14 | 45m |
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Start well left of the obvious rounded buttress (although the buttress has also been gained more directly). Once at the ledge at one-third height, move along it and get established on the buttress (crux). More fine climbing follows. Runners are reasonably tricky to arrange, and well spaced.
Paul Rogers
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2 | Moko | 20 | 45m |
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Lines on a face. The best natural line of its grade in the North Island? In the wall right of the buttress is a large alcove. Make your way into this and then out again through the overhang. Follow a thin groove line above, just right of the buttress, to the top. Runners are small and fiddly; a challenging lead and definitely not your first route of this grade outside of the gym.
Paul Rogers
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3 | Crazy Baldheads | 17 | 40m |
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Climb between the two large rounded recesses, and up the wall above past two small round recesses.
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4 | King In the Arena | 17 | 40m |
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Climb Under Heavy Manners to the hole, then take the left edge of the hole and continue straight up on natural gear. cams to no 3, wires to no 9. Finishes at the same point as Crazy Baldheads.
Paul Rogers
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5 | Under Heavy Manners | 15 ,17 | 40m |
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Originally climbed on natural gear, but information about the early routes
was scarce and the bolts were placed in the mistaken belief that this was a
new route.
Paul Rogers
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6 | Fittest of the Fittest | 17 | 40m |
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Shares the same start as the last two routes, then depart from the hole on the right and continue straight up a vague crack system on natural gear, cutting back left at the top to the same finish as Under Heavy Manners.
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7 | Pride of the South | 20 ,19 | 45m |
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A strenuous beginning through the left end of the stepped overhang, then easing off to the belay. Seven bolts to a double bolt belay.
Mark Morrison, Tim Robertson
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8 | Scoopage | 17 ,17 | 45m |
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Sneak through the step in the overhangs, then up and right above them to belay on a small ledge right in the middle of the shield-like wall.
Paul Rogers
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9 | Positively Volcanic | 18 | 45m |
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Finds its way between the two systems of overhangs. 12 bolts to the top. Double bolts at the ninth clip to lower off, at about 23m up, but better as a single pitch.
Paul Rogers
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10 | Authorised Version | 18 | 45m |
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Begin at the left end of the next major section of overhangs. There are good mid-size cams in the overhang. Continue up a slight weakness in the wall above.
Paul Rogers
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