Golden Wall

Into and out of the slanting pod — the Cyclops’s eye — on the line of overhangs, then up and right to a natural belay. Reasonably awkward to protect. Take CDs to 2.5, wires, and a big thread sling.

Up the right side of the Cyclops bulge. Move left after the third bolt. Five bolts, double bolt belay.

Start up Sous Le Monde, continuing straight up at the third bolt. Nice rock, slightly overhanging, 5 bolts.

Instantly classic. Thoughtful moves on edges and slopes up the immaculate wall, then move left at the roof. Nine bolts, double bolt belay.

The central line on the wall. Start as for Ape To Angel, but bust straight out through the roof on slopers and edges with a final move crux. Seven bolts, finishing at the same belay as Arturism.

The right-hand line on the wall. Grapple through the roof by slapping the sides of the huge fridge-sized protuberance. Seven bolts.

Good gear all the way and heaps of exposure. Start under the obvious overhanging chimney, at the right end of the orange wall. Climb crack systems in the steep wall to gain the bottom of the chimney either directly or from the left (crux). On the first ascent, a section of hanging blocks was tackled to get into the hanging chimney. A no.6 Trango cam was lost about here, hence the name. Shortly after, Richard Turner ‘spent hours removing vast amounts of debris . . . including five or more half-metre lumps of free-hanging death’, thinking he was cleaning a new route. Take double ropes, thread slings and a full rack.