|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Start 3-4m left of Morning Glory, angle left-ish up between bulges to a roof, step left then up (crux) through bulges and up onto ledge, head up big left corner crack and directly through roof to find belay on edge of central buttress
Drop into gully behind the buttress and directly up headwall just to the right of water line & belay off boulders a few meters back from top, alternatively scramble further up gully to join Morning Glory under the chock-stone
Extra Beta: First Pitch: 35-40m, Grade 21, Protection Size: Camalots #0.5-2 Start 5m downhill and left of "Morning Glory" start. Staunch overhung unprotected start in middle of choppy base, with first piece (#0.5 camalot) about 6m up in the widening crack below vegetation. Crux is trending left and up around the corner bulge to progress further upwards. Scramble up first ledge with many loose rocks, careful of your belayer. Make your way up to the largely in-tact face of the left pillar, and follow the obvious crack up the face using the chimney to the right as needed. Pull up the last overhanging moves to finish (belay on top using cams and/or bollard sligns). Second Pitch: 15-20m, Grade 18, Protection Size: Camalots #0.25-2 From the belay position, climb down the backside of the pillar and up slightly right at the base of the next wall. Aim for the obvious crack to the right of the waterfall (may vary in size and dampness depending on seasonal weather). This crack mirrors the left edge of the pillar behind you. First protection about 5m up (#2 Camalot). Aim straight up angling vaguely right through solid boulders and flakes. Mind the waterfall and moss. Belay bollard 5m left from finish. Leave last piece of protection in place as a re-direct for belaying.
FFA Karsen Lorentz, Feb 2017