Rehab Wall

(14 routes)

This section of the Mangatoetoenui bluffs is about 200m upstream of the gorge wall containing "Blue Eyes White Dragon", on the same (southern) side of the valley. It's a distinctive smooth wall with a platy patina, similar in appearance to Whakapapa Gorge.

Two gullies just upstream of the wall allow foot access between the bottom and the top of the crag. All natural gear and anchors, befitting this pristine location. Take slings for top anchors.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1800m
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
30 minutes
Access: 

See general description for Mangatoetoenui Gorge.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.271908170000, 175.610550000000
NZMS260: 
T20 353 115
Topo50: 
BJ34 252498
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Walking the Drill 16 20m
0
wire representing trad
Dogleg crack at left hand end of the crag. Steep start then easier at the top. Midsize cams and wires, trad belay.
FFA Cliff Ellery, Richard Knott 6/1/16
2 316 Trad 19 20m
0
5bolts
Climb face on small ledges past two bolts. Pull through small roof then proceed to top on big jugs. Double bolt belay.
FFA Cliff Ellery, Richard Knott 6/1/16
3 Low Ball Excursion 16 40m
0
wire representing trad
Start just right of '316 Trad'. Follow thesweeping arch to the rap station. All on Trad gear, small- medium and take plenty of slings for bollards.
FFA Richard Knott, Cliff Ellery 6/1/16
4 Iaso 18 20m
0
wire representing trad
The smooth wall just left of The Strassburg Effect. Bouldery moves through the obvious shallow pod at ~3m (crux), then up the wall, stepping left onto the hanging face to finish. Medium wires especially handy in the lower section.
Tom Wilson, Brigid Borlase December 2014
5 The Strassburg Effect 14 22m
0
wire representing trad
Straight up the obvious crack system to the high point of the crag. A small roof at the end adds spice. Excellent pro. Very pleasant.
Tom Wilson, Brigid Borlase December 2014
6 Going Straight 16 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
Crack to the right of 'The Strassburg Effect' that joins it at half height. Leave the crack as it bends left and finish directly up through the overhang just left of a bushy ledge.
FFA David Garrity, Aimee Hutchinson, Ellen Garrity 6/1/16
7 Resolution 15 20m
2.01
wire representing trad
ZigZag crack through overlap. Climb on to rap station and bollards to belay.
FFA David Garrity, Ellen Garrity, Bryce Martin 5/1/16
8 Slingky Malinky 14 20m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start at same place as 'Resolution'. climb right to first spike runner. Follow the spikes and bollards to the rap station. The challenge is to do it entirely on slings.
FFA David Garrity, Ellen Garrity 5/1/16
9 Sweet Sixteen 16 20m
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Hard start under the overhang. Then climb up through the overlap supplementing the bolts if you wish/can. Finish at rap station.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/1/16
12 Do It Again 14 25m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Follow the bolts and supplement with trad. Belay on bollards at the top.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/1/16
13 I'm Happy 14 25m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Follow the second line of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' Belay at top.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 5/1/16
14 Narrow Way 14 25m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
3rd set of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' climbing a pillar at first. supplement bolts with trad. Belay at top.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/1/16
15 Whatever 15 25m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Shares hardish start with the next climb. follow the bolts up to bollards at the top.
FFA Bryce Martin, David Garrity 6/1/16
16 The First Step 14 25m
0
wire representing trad
The first step is hard, the rest is straightforward, up to the buttress to the right and climb this on the left. Belay off bollards at top.
Philip Garrity, Ellen Garrity and others 5/1/16
Attribution: 
Francis Garrity

Comments

Topos and descriptions now updated. Thanks to Francis Garrity for the photoshopping.

New routes all done during the 2016 summer rock climbing camp.