Rehab Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

1800m

Part of

Rehab Wall is about 200m upstream of Dragon Wall. It's a distinctive smooth wall with a platy patina, similar in appearance to Whakapapa Gorge.
Two gullies just upstream of the wall allow foot access between the bottom and the top of the crag. Most routes have natural gear and anchors (take slings). There are several bolted and mixed routes and a belay/rap station near the middle of the wall.

Walktime

30 minutes

Aspect

North

Lat/lon

-39.27190817,175.61055, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BJ34 252498

Approach

See general description for Mangatoetoenui Gorge.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Walking the Drill, 16	16	20m		0
P1 16 20m Trad Dogleg crack at left hand end of the crag. Steep start then easier at the top. Midsize cams and wires, trad belay.
2	2316 Trad, 19	19	20m	5	0
P1 19 20m 5 Climb face on small ledges past two bolts. Pull through small roof then proceed to top on big jugs. Double bolt belay.
3	3Low Ball Excursion, 16	16	40m		0
P1 16 40m Trad Start just right of '316 Trad'. Follow thesweeping arch to the rap station. All on Trad gear, small- medium and take plenty of slings for bollards.
4	4Iaso, 18	18	20m		0
P1 18 20m Trad The smooth wall just left of The Strassburg Effect. Bouldery moves through the obvious shallow pod at ~3m (crux), then up the wall, stepping left onto the hanging face to finish. Medium wires especially handy in the lower section.
5	5The Strassburg Effect, 14	14	22m		0
P1 14 22m Trad Straight up the obvious crack system to the high point of the crag. A small roof at the end adds spice. Excellent pro. Very pleasant.
6	6Going Straight, 16	16	25m		1.02
P1 16 25m Trad Crack to the right of 'The Strassburg Effect' that joins it at half height. Leave the crack as it bends left and finish directly up through the overhang just left of a bushy ledge.
9	9Resolution, 15	15	20m		2.01
P1 15 20m Trad ZigZag crack through overlap. Climb on to rap station and bollards to belay.
10	10Slingky Malinky, 14	14	20m		1.02
P1 14 20m Trad Start at same place as 'Resolution'. climb right to first spike runner. Follow the spikes and bollards to the rap station. The challenge is to do it entirely on slings.
11	11Sweet Sixteen, 16	16	20m	4	1.02
P1 16 20m 4 Trad Hard start under the overhang. Then climb up through the overlap supplementing the bolts if you wish/can. Finish at rap station.
12	12Do It Again, 14	14	25m	4	0
P1 14 25m 4 Trad Follow the bolts and supplement with trad. Belay on bollards at the top.
13	13I'm Happy, 14	14	25m	5	0
P1 14 25m 5 Trad Follow the second line of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' Belay at top.
14	14Narrow Way, 14	14	25m	3	0
P1 14 25m 3 Trad 3rd set of bolts right of 'Sweet Sixteen' climbing a pillar at first. supplement bolts with trad. Belay at top.
15	15Whatever, 15	15	25m	5	0
P1 15 25m 5 Trad Shares hardish start with the next climb. follow the bolts up to bollards at the top.
16	16The First Step, 14	14	25m		0
P1 14 25m Trad The first step is hard, the rest is straightforward, up to the buttress to the right and climb this on the left. Belay off bollards at top.