Tukinos generally southeast aspect and the multitude of climbs at low altitude make it a particularly good location for ice climbing on Ruapehu.
Lack of easy access has probably been the main reason for the lack of developed rock climbing on the eastern side of Ruapehu. Certainly there is no lack of potential rock, and the crags on this side of Ruapehu are much drier – in fact, almost desert-like. Thus, the need to clean routes is minimised.
Some of the advantages of climbing at Tukino is that there is no grass, gorse, moss or lichen on the rock so they never dirty-up.
The rock is generally surprisingly solid, but there are sections where there is loose rock.
Generally protection is nuts and camming devices but there are often bollards and threads for slings. Bolts are very rarely used (discouraged). Most routes will have excellent belay bollards at the top. Walk-offs are generally fairly easy.
Please remember that you are in an alpine area and weather conditions can change at any time, so always keep an eye on the weather.
Tukino skifield is accessed via a 4WD road from the Desert Road. There is a locked gate 4km before the road end: see Tukino Alpine Sports Club (TASC) website for contact details to get key and road conditions. As of January 2015, the access road was fine for 4WD cars and a couple of 2WD cars made it to and from the NZAC Summer Camp.
Please remember that you are in an alpine area, and the road can be easily blocked by snow at any time of the year. So caution is advised, and keep an eye on the forecast. It's a long way to the nearest vehicle recovery operator who has appropriately equipped vehicles.
Places
| Actions | ||
|---|---|---|
| Crag | Wall of Sound (14 routes) | |
| Crag | Nik's Crags (0 routes) | |
| Boulder | Fun Rock (0 routes) | |
| Crag | Whangaehu Central (3 routes) | |
| Crag | Margaret's Leap (4 routes) | |
| Crag | Margaret's Landing (2 routes) | |
| Crag | Master Angus Wall (9 routes) | |
| Crag | Tascmaster Wall (26 routes) | |
| Crag | Southern Bluffs (11 routes) | |
| Crag | Waterfall Crag (5 routes) | |
| Crag | DA Outcrop Childs Buttress (1 route) | |
| Crag | Child's Play (9 routes) | |
| Crag | Micro Crag (4 routes) | |
| Crag | Dimrill Stairs (8 routes) | |
| Crag | Shirt Front (6 routes) | |
| Crag | Northern Bluffs (11 routes) | |
| Crag | Mangatoetoenui Gorge (42 routes) | |
| Crag | Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress (23 routes) | |
| Crag | Iron Wall (1 route) | |
| Crag | The Rolling Stones crag (2 routes) |
