Type:
Alpine
Description:
This climb on the Arrowhead Buttress is a superb route. The descent is a 25m abseil down the western side from the notch.
Pitch(es):
| # | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 15 | M4 | 50m | No | |||||||
Begin on the north side of the lower buttress and climbs through a small overhang (crux 15) and up easier but interesting climbing to the nose of the buttress, where it steepens again (crux 12) to an airy belay. | |||||||||||
| 2 | 25m | No | |||||||||
Continues along the blocky level portion of the ridge across a cheval to a belay on the small saddle at the toe of the upper buttress. | |||||||||||
| 3 | 40m | No | |||||||||
Climb directly up from the saddle on steep ice / mixed ground to the left of the rock buttress, leading to easier ground. The climb then finishes up a short ice gully with a loose rock wall at its head. The summit is very loose and exposed, and it requires some work to hook axes over the top and peer over before retreating to a better belay stance at the notch to the north of the summit. | |||||||||||
Grade:
15 M4,,
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
115m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
0
Ascent:
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006
Route Image:
UUID:
2e887aba-d34f-4060-b47f-048cd3171b6b