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Tigers on Vaseline

First ascent
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006
Located on

This climb on the Arrowhead Buttress is a superb route. The descent is a 25m abseil down the western side from the notch.

  • P1
  • 15
  • Mixed M4
  • 50m

Begin on the north side of the lower buttress and climbs through a small overhang (crux 15) and up easier but interesting climbing to the nose of the buttress, where it steepens again (crux 12) to an airy belay.

  • P2
  • 25m

Continues along the blocky level portion of the ridge across a cheval to a belay on the small saddle at the toe of the upper buttress.

  • P3
  • 40m

Climb directly up from the saddle on steep ice / mixed ground to the left of the rock buttress, leading to easier ground. The climb then finishes up a short ice gully with a loose rock wall at its head. The summit is very loose and exposed, and it requires some work to hook axes over the top and peer over before retreating to a better belay stance at the notch to the north of the summit.