This climb on the Arrowhead Buttress is a superb route. The descent is a 25m abseil down the western side from the notch.
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Begin on the north side of the lower buttress and climbs through a small overhang (crux 15) and up easier but interesting climbing to the nose of the buttress, where it steepens again (crux 12) to an airy belay.
Continues along the blocky level portion of the ridge across a cheval to a belay on the small saddle at the toe of the upper buttress.
Climb directly up from the saddle on steep ice / mixed ground to the left of the rock buttress, leading to easier ground. The climb then finishes up a short ice gully with a loose rock wall at its head. The summit is very loose and exposed, and it requires some work to hook axes over the top and peer over before retreating to a better belay stance at the notch to the north of the summit.
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006