On the upper north-eastern side of Pinnacle Ridge and visible peeking over from the NZAC hut are a number of steep, easily accessible routes that offer interesting and challenging climbing.
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| Moonage Daydream | 13 M2 | 45m |
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Starts up a corner on The Gnome and leads to a short steep wall (crux 13) and then an easy ridge and a final steep pitch to the summit. There is a straightforward downclimb to the west.
Yibai He, Mike Peat, June 2006
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| Wave of Phase | 14 M3 | 60m |
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A two-pitch (25m, 35m) mixed route on the South Tower starts from the toe of the tower and ascends trickier-than-it-looks and rather loose rock to a belay on the large ledge in the middle of the face. Pitch 2 continues up the obvious wall on very nice rock (crux 14). The descent involves an abseil (15m) down the north side.
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006
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| Cosmic Jive | 16 M4 | 45m |
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On the Central Tower, the route starts with a traverse above easy ground to the start of the route, heads up and right around the prow of the buttress and then up a steep wall with sustained moves (crux 16). This leads into a corner system that provides interesting climbing to the summit. The descent is a 20m abseil to the north.
Yibai He, Mike Peat, June 2006
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| Religiously Unkind | 16 | 65m |
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A two-pitch (40m and 25m) summer rock route up a reasonably safe line to the left of the chimney. Descent was via a 30m abseil to the southwest.
Mike Peat, John Dawkins, March 2007
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| Road to Purgatory | 14 M3 | 25m |
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On the North Te Herenga Tower, climb the short offwidth to the first icefield, continue up until and through a short gully and through another icefield to the bottom of a short face. Once this is climbed (crux) another short icefield leads to a horn belay. This route was originally climbed to retrieve ropes stuck after an ascent of Religiously Unkind. Take large cams, wires and sling threads.
Joseph Nelson, 26 September 2011
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| Snow White Tan | WI2 | 120m |
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On the Arrowhead Buttress, start on the left side of the lower buttress and ascend the obvious ice flow. Then follow a broad snow gully tending left into a narrow couloir, where it is necessary to either climb the ice or bridge up the rock walls. The route pops over an adjoining snow ridge and up an easy gully to a very loose summit. The descent continues over the summit.
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, August 2006
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| Tigers on Vaseline | 15 M4,, | 115m |
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This climb on the Arrowhead Buttress is a superb route. The descent is a 25m abseil down the western side from the notch.
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006
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| Leper Messiah | WI3 | 100m |
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A two pitch climb on The Shield, destined to become a classic. From the centre of the face, tend left toward the snow arête and up 50 degree ice to a belay. Pitch 2 heads up a short steep ice wall (crux) then tends right across the ice shield. Above this, the terrain relents from 60 to 50 degrees. The final part of the climb is up a 60 degree gully to the summit. Descend via either a 10 m abseil down the west side or a steepish down climb also to the west from the south end of the summit block.
Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, August 2006
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