Type:
Alpine
Description:
Starts below deep cleft about 30m left of Mr Lava Lava.
Gear: 4-5 short screws, wires, 2 sets medium-large cams, 1 set small cams, hexes, couple of pitons.
Pitch(es):
| # | Ewbank | Alpine (Technical) | Alpine (Commitment) | Alpine (Mt Cook) | Aid | Water Ice | Mixed | Boulder (Hueco) | Length | Bolts | Trad |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | WI2 | 25m | Yes | ||||||||
Up ice steps to belay just left of chimney. | |||||||||||
| 2 | M6 | 45m | Yes | ||||||||
Up right into chimney, weave through one or two rock caves with stemming moves, then straight up vertical pick crack to top. Takes good gear up to hard top out over ice bulge. | |||||||||||
| 3 | WI3 | 15m | Yes | ||||||||
From ledge, up low angle groove directly above P2. Easy climbing but unprotectable. Walking off along the ledge is an option if you want to avoid this pitch. | |||||||||||
Grade:
WI2,M6,WI3
Quality:
Gone:
0
Length:
85m
Bolts:
0
Natural pro:
1
Ascent:
FA Gregor Kolbe, Edwin Sheppard, Shaun Brown, July 2020
Route Image:
UUID:
e10031a0-a927-419b-a5e2-d14f986ab1c9