South Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

Matihao can lay a solid claim to having the best ice routes on Ruapehu on its South Face. These climbs are long, steep and exposed – and being high on the mountain they can remain in condition late into spring.

Aspect

South

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Left Couloir, I,3	I,3	0m	1.02
A great two-pitch route up the major couloir on the left end of the face, to top out on the col between the two southern summit outcrops. P1 Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Easy Gully, I,1	I,1	0m	0
A pleasant introduction to the South Face. P1 Alpine (Technical) 1 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Accidental Pleasure, WI3	WI3		0
Start as for Lahar View, then head left. After first step follow left hand chimney and corner until you reach as small ledge/pinnacle then follow left trending ice bulges unto upper slopes. After easy grade runout surmount last step and follow easy grade slopes to belay at the top. We did it in three pitches. Possibly climbed before, but a great outing and worth a mention/ description. P1 Water Ice WI3
	Lahar View, I,4	I,4	0m	1.02
“Three of us climbed the central gully in November 1977 up three pitches of ice and snow lightly covered with ash from the recent eruptions” – Harry Keys. The left-hand line on the main central face, with a ﬁne last pitch on to the summit block. P1 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Piton Route, I,4	I,4	0m	1.02
Climbs the left side of the ﬂow, exiting on to the col between the two summit blocks. P1 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Route Five, I,4	I,4	0m	1.02
A little steeper than the Piton Route, moving into a nice gully near the top of the lower face. Finding a sound belay in soft snow on the middle ledge can be tricky; look for rock if possible. A second pitch is a two-move wonder through the rock band. P1 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Straight Route, I,4	I,4	0m	1.02
The best of the easier routes, consistently steep with nice bulges lower down. Drift right as you near the middle ledge and the difficulties ease. P1 Alpine (Technical) 4 Alpine (Commitment) I
	Corner Route, I,5	I,5	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Technical) 5 Alpine (Commitment) I Climb mixed ground into a shallow corner. Climb this until forced right onto moderately steep ice that eases towards the belay.
	Blind Faith			0
70m long route on the left-hand side of the main rock buttress. Can be a fully formed (although thin) water-ice route or a mixed line up to an ice pillar. Excellent either way. Climb up low-angled ice steps then up steep, challenging climbing to the vertical ice pillar. Descent: Rap off v-threads or climb the low-angle ice above the route through the second tier, then walk around. Gear: Screws including stubbies, rock gear if it's not fully formed.
	Eyes on the Pies, WI2,M6	WI2,M6	85m	0
Starts below deep cleft about 30m left of Mr Lava Lava. Gear: 4-5 short screws, wires, 2 sets medium-large cams, 1 set small cams, hexes, couple of pitons. P1 Water Ice WI2 25m Trad Up ice steps to belay just left of chimney. P2 Mixed M6 45m Trad Up right into chimney, weave through one or two rock caves with stemming moves, then straight up vertical pick crack to top. Takes good gear up to hard top out over ice bulge. P3 Water Ice WI3 15m Trad From ledge, up low angle groove directly above P2. Easy climbing but unprotectable. Walking off along the ledge is an option if you want to avoid this pitch.
	Ubiquitous Ed, WI2,M5	WI2,M5	85m	0
Great route up the blocky groove 10m right of the deep cleft that is Eyes on the Pies. P1 Water Ice WI2 25m Trad Up moderate ice to belay at the base of the blocky groove. P2 Mixed M5 45m Trad M5+ ish. Up the blocky groove and then trend right to climb the left-facing corner to the ledge. A little run-out in places. P3 Mixed M4 15m Trad Climb up under the giant hanging boulder and out the right-hand side. Decent rock gear.
	Mr Lava Lava, M6	M6	70m	0
P1 Mixed M6 70m Trad Takes one of the many steep cracks in central section of face. Started up left facing corner on left side of large pillar. Then climbs striking offwidth in center of pillar.
	Method Man, M5	M5	60m	1.02
P1 Mixed M5 40m Follow rightward trending ledges to a belay under the short black roof. P2 Mixed M7 20m Climb through the roof into an overhanging corner, follow the corner through two cruxes
	Kelpie Yelpie, M7	M7	20m	0
P1 Mixed M7 20m Trad Corner cracks with good gear to belay ledge with huge cracks. Rapped off rock thread.
	Rusty piton, M7	M7	70m	0
P1 Mixed M7 70m Trad Hard climbing with good gear up crack systems on the right side of the face.
	Ride the Lightning, M7	M7	70m	1.02
P1 Mixed M7 20m Trad Start directly up the blank slab to the right of 'Rusty Piton Route' and continue into some staunch moves up the steep and fractured face above. P2 Mixed M6 50m Trad Carry on up the low angle terrain above, trend leftward to a stance on a large block below the final headwall, follow the obvious line of weakness to the top.
	Like Your Mom, M5	M5	60m	0
Starts about 30 meters to the left of Goblin's Thrash up a steep crack system. Good hooks. Belay on small ledge at about 40m off the deck. Second pitch exited out right due to poor ice conditions, but would be good when ice is better. about 60m total, M5 for first pitch,M3/4 for second. Some loose rock. Walk off. Fun, but not amazing, route. P1 Mixed M5 40m Trad Start up steep crack system (10m) to more ramble-y terrain then up steep corner to belay P2 Mixed M3 20m Trad Exit/traverse up and right.
	Goblin’s Thrash, I,3	I,3	30m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 3 Alpine (Commitment) I 30m A short line on the far right end of the wall.
	Ultra Right, I,2	I,2	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Technical) 2 Alpine (Commitment) I Shorter still and further right.
	Strange Onions, M5	M5	60m	1.02
A fun,moderate, two pitch mixed route on good rock. Pitch 1: M5- Start just right of Ultra Right up a short chimney. Continue straight up to an alcove at the base of a overhanging hand crack. #3 C4 fits well here. Pitch 2: M5 Duck down and right around the corner to the base of a left-facing chimney/corner. Climb up corner to the top and walk-off. P1 Mixed M5 60m Trad

Comments

steven.fortune

Room for about 30 new routes on wall! Bring lots of cams, great protection.

Fri, 23/11/2012 - 14:38 Permalink

UUID

93a59820-d8c3-48a9-8af2-38802f795d01