Natural pro requiredThe classic climb of the valley. If you climb only one route at Mangatepopo,
it really ought to be this one. Start from the platform at very front toe of
the buttress. A better alternative to the last pitch may be to finish via one
of the routes on the Upper Tier [1].
[1] http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mangatepopo/bomb-bay-cliff/upper-tier
- P1
- 14
- 30m
- Trad
Climb directly up hand and fist cracks to a spike of rock. Then make a delicate move left across the slab into a groove, which can be climbed easily to a large belay ledge.
- P2
- 16
- 20m
- Trad
Climb leftwards up the easy-angled buttress until you are standing on a ledge beneath a slightly overhanging corner. Climb straight up this corner (crux) to easy ground above and a belay ledge. It is possible to do variations either to the left or the right (easiest) of this corner, if you have difficulties.
- P3
- 8
- 60m
- Trad
Finish up the shallow gully over broken rock to the top.