Bomb Arête

Type: 
Rock
Description: 
The classic climb of the valley. If you climb only one route at Mangatepopo, it really ought to be this one. Start from the platform at very front toe of the buttress. A better alternative to the last pitch may be to finish via one of the routes on the Upper Tier [1]. [1] http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mangatepopo/bomb-bay-cliff/upper-tier
Reference: 
5
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11430mYes
 

Climb directly up hand and fist cracks to a spike of rock. Then make a delicate move left across the slab into a groove, which can be climbed easily to a large belay ledge.

21620mYes
 

Climb leftwards up the easy-angled buttress until you are standing on a ledge beneath a slightly overhanging corner. Climb straight up this corner (crux) to easy ground above and a belay ledge. It is possible to do variations either to the left or the right (easiest) of this corner, if you have difficulties.

3860mYes
 

Finish up the shallow gully over broken rock to the top.

Grade: 
14 ,16 ,8
Quality: 
3
Gone: 
0
Length: 
110m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, Colin Abbott, 1972
UUID: 
a9eb185c-c758-4c3b-860a-ab0edd26737c