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Underworld

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 25 May 2026, by JP.

The 2026 climbing season at Whanganui Bay starts on Saturday 30 May and ends on Monday 30 November. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Type
Sector
Part of
Approach

The huge complex wall down the gorge from the Pacifica wall. Unless otherwise mentioned, the routes are accessed from above, in a rap-in-climb-out style. There is a track that leads from downstream end of the Pacifica wall.

Image

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Rip Curl, 28 28 0m 7
1.02

  • P1
  • 28
  • 7

Access is from the lower gorge track. Just upstream from the Mangakara confluence, a short track on the true right leads to the base of the wall. Climb the steep groove/wave feature left of Ripple Effect, then tiptoe up the airy slab to the anchor.


 Ripple Effect, 28 28 28m 12
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 28m
  • 12

Access is from the lower gorge track. Just upstream from the Mangakara confluence, a short track on the true right leads to the base of the wall. Climb the obvious pillar/arete feature covered in aesthetic ripples, then quest out onto the pocketed wall above, and finish up the amazing friction slab. Has a little bit of everything.


1 1Bingo, 23 23 28m 11
2.01

Access is via the third rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 28m
  • 11

Climb the red groove above the belay ledge to access a smooth pocketed wall. Here a sequence of great moves on 2 and 3 finger pockets awaits. Juggy ground then leads to a second pocketed wall, with more excellent pocket pulling in a fine position. Save a little bit for the end (hint hint).


2 2Side Hustle, 24 24 20m 10
1.02

Access is via the second rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 10

The left hand line from the obvious ledge. Some scrappy rock is followed by a steeper-than-it-looks corner, a mantle and then a cranky crux on the upper pillar. 22 A1 if you aid the crux using quickdraws.


3 3Underworld, 25 25 20m 7
2.01

Access is via the first rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall. It is recommended that you clip into the fixed chain.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7

This is the right hand line from the obvious ledge. Don't let a little bit of scruffy rock put you off. Climb the leaning wall on good grips, to an exciting and exacting finale. Pumpy with a crux where is hurts most.


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