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Underworld

CLOSED: Closed until further notice. Please do not climb here.
Updated 1 December 2025, by JP.

Whanganui Bay is now closed to climbers. Access dates for 2026 are to be confirmed. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

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Approach

The huge complex wall down the gorge from the Pacifica wall. Unless otherwise mentioned, the routes are accessed from above, in a rap-in-climb-out style. There is a track that leads from downstream end of the Pacifica wall.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Rip Curl, 28 28 0m 7
1.02

  • P1
  • 28
  • 7

Access is from the lower gorge track. Just upstream from the Mangakara confluence, a short track on the true right leads to the base of the wall. Climb the steep groove/wave feature left of Ripple Effect, then tiptoe up the airy slab to the anchor.


 Ripple Effect, 28 28 28m 12
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 28m
  • 12

Access is from the lower gorge track. Just upstream from the Mangakara confluence, a short track on the true right leads to the base of the wall. Climb the obvious pillar/arete feature covered in aesthetic ripples, then quest out onto the pocketed wall above, and finish up the amazing friction slab. Has a little bit of everything.


1 1Bingo, 23 23 28m 11
2.01

Access is via the third rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 28m
  • 11

Climb the red groove above the belay ledge to access a smooth pocketed wall. Here a sequence of great moves on 2 and 3 finger pockets awaits. Juggy ground then leads to a second pocketed wall, with more excellent pocket pulling in a fine position. Save a little bit for the end (hint hint).


2 2Side Hustle, 24 24 20m 10
1.02

Access is via the second rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall.


  • P1
  • 24
  • 20m
  • 10

The left hand line from the obvious ledge. Some scrappy rock is followed by a steeper-than-it-looks corner, a mantle and then a cranky crux on the upper pillar. 22 A1 if you aid the crux using quickdraws.


3 3Underworld, 25 25 20m 7
2.01

Access is via the first rap anchor that you encounter when walking from the Pacifica wall. It is recommended that you clip into the fixed chain.


  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7

This is the right hand line from the obvious ledge. Don't let a little bit of scruffy rock put you off. Climb the leaning wall on good grips, to an exciting and exacting finale. Pumpy with a crux where is hurts most.


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