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Underworld

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 28 June 2025, by Richard Thomson.

Whanganui Bay is now open to climbers until 30 November 2025. To register and for access conditions visit https://whanganuibay.acat.org.nz/.

Type
Part of
Approach

The huge complex wall down the gorge from the Pacifica wall. Unless otherwise mentioned, the routes are accessed from above, in a rap-in-climb-out style. There is a track that leads from downstream end of the Pacifica wall.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Ripple Effect, 28 28 28m 12
2.01

  • P1
  • 28
  • 28m
  • 12

Access is from the lower gorge track. Just upstream from the Mangakara confluence, a short track on the true right leads to the base of the wall. Climb the obvious pillar/arete feature covered in aesthetic ripples, then quest out onto the pocketed wall above, and finish up the amazing friction slab. Has a little bit of everything.


 Side Hustle, 22 22 20m 7
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 20m
  • 7

The left hand line from the obvious ledge. Some scrappy rock is followed by good moves on the upper pillar.


 Underworld, 25 25 20m 7
2.01

  • P1
  • 25
  • 20m
  • 7

This is the right hand line from the obvious ledge. Climb the leaning wall on good grips, to an exciting and exacting finale. Pumpy with a crux where is hurts most.


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