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Trinity Wall

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 4 November 2024, by jonathan.

Whanganui Bay is open to climbers until 1 December 2024. You must register – details are below. 

Type
Part of

The prow in the centre of this wall features some hard and reasonably steep test pieces.

Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
37 37Rough Trade, 23 23 15m 4
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 4

From the scoop, charge up the crack feature to gain the featured wall above, where things get tricky just in the nick of time. It is possible to climb the top without using either of the neighbouring cracks.


38 38Breakdance, 23 23 15m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 2
  • Trad

Climb the groove past two bolts to pod and then continue up the finger crack on small gear. Belay in the cave thingy. Originally done without the bolts by climbing a tree to start (which is now dead and gone).


39 39Up for Grabs, 26 26 18m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 26
  • 18m
  • 6
  • Trad

As for the previous route but head straight up from the pod via some small pockets to excellent moves on the head wall.


40 40Trilogy, 29 29 18m 9
2.01

  • P1
  • 29
  • 18m
  • 9

Claims to be the hardest route at the Bay and was the final of three attempts at climbing Richard’s project. Climb up the overhanging scoop staying right of the blunt arête until over the lip, then move left and up onto the face with difficulty. Finish as for Up for Grabs.


41 41Trinity, 29 29 18m 8
2.01

  • P1
  • 29
  • 18m
  • 8

This was the original project. Climb as for Trilogy but once over the lip head right to a good rest and finish straight up. Easier than Trilogy but probably not by a grade, unless you bypass the crux by climbing well left of the bolts.


42 42Tiger-style, 29 29 18m 6
2.01

  • P1
  • 29
  • 18m
  • 6

The first attempt to put ‘the project’ to bed. Climb up as per the previous two routes but at the fourth bolt traverse right via some sharp holds and then climb Even Dwarves Started Small.


43 43Even Dwarves Started Small, 27 27 12m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 27
  • 12m
  • 4

It’s not a slab! Start off the top of the block (a stick-clip perhaps?) and head up the arête and through the top groove.


44 44The Green Dragon, 24 24 8m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 8m
  • 4

Start off the boulder and climb the corner to the right of Even Dwarves. Take a sling for the natural thread anchor or back jump.


45 45So LA, 23 23 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 6

Start down and right, with a tricky move left onto the scalloped wall.


46 46Revolver, 23 23 15m 6
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 15m
  • 6

Surge up the overhang just left of the crack. Once established on the featured wall, use whatever crazy scoops and pinches you can find to make the anchor before the pump sets in.


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