Sporting Wall

Start as for Smear Test. At some point, head left then up to a good stance left of the Smear Test belay ledge. Punch upwards on good but very mossy holds then follow the line of bolts up and left to the top of the cliff. Getting down is a bit of a chore. It’s best to get your belayer to second the route then abseil down Hands Solo.

Climb the slabby pillar left of the bush-filled corner. Once out in the sunshine, head straight up through a bulge to good holds and on to a belay ledge. You’ll probably want some gear at the start and above the last bolt.

Just right of the bush-filled corner, climb the dark low angle slab to the obvious ledge.

From ledge at the top of Smear Test, climb the wall left of the vague arête on good protruding holds to a committing mantle. Above that, track up and right to the belay.

A ‘filler’ route squeezed between two much better lines.

Generously equipped with bolts, this used to be everyone’s first ‘24’ at the Bay. From the far right of the Knobs And Knockers ledge climb the black wall to the top of the cliff.

Climb the short arête and then head right onto the forever slab.

Climb this way. Wander up the wall to a short, steeper section onto the top of the Forever Tuesday Morning slab.

Pukoko is lichen. You have been warned. Either start up Piki Mai and move right, or tackle the boulder problem. A blocky section follows into the chimney. Belay in the cave.

The left-hand side of the short slab sticking out of the bush.

The right-hand side of the slab is slightly harder, if only because the tree to the right seems intent on taking over the climb.