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Moss Corner

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 4 November 2024, by jonathan.

Whanganui Bay is open to climbers until 1 December 2024. You must register – details are below. 

Type
Part of

The right-hand end of Whekenui is accessed by a separate uphill track that branches off before you reach Eternity Wall.

Image
Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
47 47Jim Takes A Tumble, 24 24 10m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • 10m
  • 4

The short wall left of Moss Corner. Despite the gorse at the top this is worth doing, as it is the hardest of all the Jim Collins routes and the first route at the Bay (and possibly in New Zealand) to have bolts!


48 48Moss Corner, 18 18 10m
2.01

  • P1
  • 18
  • 10m
  • Trad

Another of the original routes from Graeme Dingle and Eric McMahon’s inaugural visit in March 1971. It was probably as dirty then as it is now, so think of yourself as a pioneer 40 years too late. Climb the corner from the boulder up the widening finger crack.


49 49Jim Takes A Booma Gutsa, 23 23 16m 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 23
  • 16m
  • 4

The looming wall right of Moss Corner and perhaps the most overhanging of all the Jim Collins routes.


50 50Dr Funkenclimb, 22 22 15m 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 3

A wee way to the first bolt, then up the overhang through a bouldery sequence. Originally finished on gear up Orm to the right, but can be finished around arête picking up final bolt of JTABG.


51 51Orm, 18 18 15m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 15m
  • Trad

The corner to the right. Take a medium–large cam for the upper crack.


 Ludovico Technique, 22 22 10m 3
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 10m
  • 3
  • Trad

Just up around the corner from Orm is this overhanging short wall (small cam) with a steep slab above.


 50 Dean Street, 17 17 18m
0

To access this route, you and your belayer will need to climb Moss Corner then following the magical rock corridor that leads to a hidden wall high on Whekenui.


  • P1
  • 17
  • 18m
  • Trad

The low angle groove on the left end of the wall leads to a nice layback finger crack. Finish right.


 Dr Funkenteleckisteinitis , 26 26 17m 3
0

To access this route, you and your belayer will need to climb Moss Corner then following the magical rock corridor that leads to a hidden wall high on Whekenui.


  • P1
  • 26
  • 17m
  • 3

The direct start to Funkentelecky involves some cranky moves on small pockets.


 Funkentelecky, 23 23 17m 2
1.02

To access this route, you and your belayer will need to climb Moss Corner then following the magical rock corridor that leads to a hidden wall high on Whekenui.


  • P1
  • 23
  • 17m
  • 2

Climb the angled arete just left of Ego Trip. Exit past the stepped roof.


 Ego Trip, 19 19 15m
1.02

To access this route, you and your belayer will need to climb Moss Corner then following the magical rock corridor that leads to a hidden wall high on Whekenui.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • Trad

Fun climbing up the cracked slab. The anchor is hiding in the trees above the wall.


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UUID
 
4f994ea2-ae25-4647-bd30-7e0140703db2