Mid-Life Wall

At the far left end of the crag, somewhat on its own. Proceed through the difficult first section, starting either from the groove on the left or slab to the right. Then charge up past ledges to slab and final headwall.

At the far left end of the wall, immediately above the short fixed rope on the track. Climb up the face then left over the bulge then head right.

Float up the blank devious corner, then groove your way to the anchor in the sunshine.

Move up the slab with difficulty and then head left at steeper ground before heading back right and finishing up the wall.

Start up the right-slanting groove to the right of the black streaked slab. Step left onto the slab and continue up to the corner and face, drifting left onto the face at the top.

Start as for previous route but continue up the groove to the right. Excellent climbing with a wide variety of moves and holds. There is a harder alternative start to the right, up the unenticing ‘V’ slot.

Best climbed as one very long pitch but take some long draws and watch your rope length on the descent. Start up slabby ground at the right end of the wall, tending right to a ledge and belay station (19, 12m, 3B). Now crank through the bulge (crux) to gain another ledge. Tackle another bulge and follow the bolts to the top of the cliff.

Start as for Smear Test. At some point, head left then up to a good stance left of the Smear Test belay ledge. Punch upwards on good but very mossy holds then follow the line of bolts up and left to the top of the cliff. Getting down is a bit of a chore. It’s best to get your belayer to second the route then abseil down Hands Solo.

Climb the slabby pillar left of the bush-filled corner. Once out in the sunshine, head straight up through a bulge to good holds and on to a belay ledge. You’ll probably want some gear at the start and above the last bolt.

Just right of the bush-filled corner, climb the dark low angle slab to the obvious ledge.

From ledge at the top of Smear Test, climb the wall left of the vague arête on good protruding holds to a committing mantle. Above that, track up and right to the belay.

A ‘filler’ route squeezed between two much better lines.

Generously equipped with bolts, this used to be everyone’s first ‘24’ at the Bay. From the far right of the Knobs And Knockers ledge climb the black wall to the top of the cliff.

Climb the short arête and then the forever slab.

Climb this way. Wander up the wall to a short, steeper section onto the top of the Forever Tuesday Morning slab.

Pukoko is lichen. You have been warned. Either start up Piki Mai and move right, or tackle the boulder problem. A blocky section follows into the chimney. Belay in the cave.

The left-hand side of the short slab sticking out of the bush.

The right-hand side of the slab is slightly harder, if only because the tree to the right seems intent on taking over the climb.