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Kafunk Wall

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 4 November 2024, by jonathan.

Whanganui Bay is open to climbers until 1 December 2024. You must register – details are below. 

Type
Sector
Part of
Whanganui Bay

The hub of Whanganui Bay sport climbing.

Rights credit
Tom Hoyle/NZAC
Access

Where the Plateau access track meets the cliff, head right up a short steep track.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
29 29Lord Kim Strike Me Down, 21 21 9m 2
0
  • P1
  • 21
  • 9m
  • 2

Fear the wrath of Lord Kim! Either that or womble up to the brief crux and then clip the anchor, you choose.
30 30Easy Pickings, 25 25 30m 14
0
  • P1
  • 25
  • 30m
  • 14

Climbs the face and long pillar for a long, long way. Would be a mega-classic if it was clean and if the crux wasn’t so unpleasant. But don’t let that put you off.
31 31Gunga Din, 18 18 18m
2.01
  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • Trad

The eye-catching corner with pockets, protrusions and a finger crack. Stem your way up to the bulge and then scuttle up the ramp to victory (and the anchor). The crack readily takes fingers-sized cams.
32 32Kafunkafunkafunkapteschew!, 24 24 14m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 14m
  • 5

Climb the wall on sloping huecos to the horizontal break where a tricky move stands in your way. Shares anchor with Gunga Din.
33 33Childhood’s End, 24 24 14m 6
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 14m
  • 6

More huecos and pockets, with an exciting finish. Bryce Martin, 1983
34 34Picked the Wrong Week To Give Up Chocolate Marshmallowpuffs, 24 24 14m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 24
  • 14m
  • 5

Another excellent route. Builds nicely to a good crank at the midpoint, followed by a good rest before some more tricky business at the lip.
35 35Manoomanoomanoomanoom, 24 24 14m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 24
  • 14m
  • 5

A little more fiddly through the lower section than the rest of the wall, but still with a sting in the tail. Stay left of the arête and try not to rest at the Miracle of Fluid Dynamics anchor around the corner.
36 36Miracle of Fluid Dynamics, 23 23 12m 5
1.02
  • P1
  • 23
  • 12m
  • 5

Starts just right of the blunt arête. The climbing is similar to the rest of the wall, but it is a bit shorter and not as fluid (ironically). Anchor is on the ledge by a tree.

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