This sheer wall hosts several of the must-do classics of Whekenui.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| 37 | 37Mother Russia, 25 | 25 | 25m | 8  |
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Climb Sister Europe to the last bolt, then punch left up the overhanging wall for a Euro-style pump. |
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| 38 | 38Sister Europe, 23 | 23 | 40m | 5 |
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Another classic addition from Dave Fearnley, probably first climbed wearing psychedelic furs. Advance boldly up to first bolt and then enjoy the sublime face climbing with just enough pockets to get by. A bit run-out to the anchor (take wires for the crack if you wish), but the climbing has eased off by this point.
A rarely climbed thin trad crack that looks good but will need a big clean. |
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| Haiku, 25 | 25 | 20m | |
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Follows the New Horizons crack all the way to the Sister Europe belay ledge. Above the horizontal break on New Horizons, a short boulder problem awaits with small gear and small footholds. |
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| 39 | 39New Horizons, 22 | 22 | 40m | |
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The crack to the right of Sister Europe leads to a horizontal undercling feature. Stack this with gear then charge to the ledge.
From the ledge there is an easier second pitch through the corner system above. May need a clean. |
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| 40 | 40Badlands, 24 | 24 | 20m | |
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If Eternity Road is too easy for you, have a go at this thin crack to the left. Small gear and increasing difficulty. An easier, earlier version (Bran) was climbed by John Howard traversing into New Horizons at the horizontal feature. |
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| 41 | 41Eternity Road, 22 | 22 | 20m | |
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Mega-classic finger crack. Charge up the crack plugging gear and preparing yourself for when the crack narrows and rejects your fingers. |
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| Avant Gardener, 21 | 21 | 12m | |
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From the Eternity Road belay climb the wall, placing gear in the thin crack, and continue up a short corner into the trees. |
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| 42 | 42Bizarete, 22 | 22 | 34m | 5 |
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The searing sharp arête. It’s a long way to the first bolt but the climbing is on generous pockets and well below the grade on this section. Proceed with care and then style your way up to the classic technical arête crux high up.
It’s well worth continuing up the arête – either as a second pitch or as a single long pitch. |
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| 43 | 43Sayonara, 17 | 17 | 15m | |
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Straight up the crack from the tree. Say goodbye to hand jams as the crack steadily narrows. Finishes to the right. Worth doing despite the vegetation. The second pitch, however… |
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| 44 | 44Wedgewood, 15 | 15 | 8m | |
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The hand and offwidth crack in the corner. |
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| Unnamed, 15 | 15 | 8m | 3 |
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A random bolted face climb. |
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| 45 | 45This Climb Is A Lemon, 13 | 13 | 8m | |
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Climb the crack or the pockets, placing gear in the crack. You may think the name is a negative one, but lemons are a truly wonderful fruit that are high in vitamin C and provide many health benefits. |
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| 46 | 46Small Pocks, 19 | 19 | 9m | 4 |
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Better than the great pox! Climb straight up the pillar through pockets, harder than it first appears. |
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| More Pocks, 19 | 19 | 9m | 4 |
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Another line to the right of Small Pocks, in similar grade and style. |
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Images
