Eternity Wall | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Part of

Whanganui Bay

This sheer wall hosts several of the must-do classics of Whekenui.

Rights credit

Tom Hoyle/NZAC

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
37	37Mother Russia, 25	25	25m	8	2.01
P1 25 25m 8 Trad Climb Sister Europe to the last bolt, then punch left up the overhanging wall for a Euro-style pump.
38	38Sister Europe, 23	23	40m	5	3
P1 23 20m 5 Trad Another classic addition from Dave Fearnley, probably first climbed wearing psychedelic furs. Advance boldly up to first bolt and then enjoy the sublime face climbing with just enough pockets to get by. A bit run-out to the anchor (take wires for the crack if you wish), but the climbing has eased off by this point. P2 21 20m Trad A rarely climbed thin trad crack that looks good but will need a big clean.
	Haiku, 25	25	20m		2.01
P1 25 20m Trad Follows the New Horizons crack all the way to the Sister Europe belay ledge. Above the horizontal break on New Horizons, a short boulder problem awaits with small gear and small footholds.
39	39New Horizons, 22	22	50m		2.01
P1 22 20m Trad The crack to the right of Sister Europe leads to a horizontal undercling feature. Stack this with gear then charge to the ledge. P2 20 30m Trad From the ledge there is an excellent second pitch through the corner system above. A series of finger cracks will take you to the top the cliff and a tree belay. Take lots of purples and greys!
40	40Badlands, 24	24	20m		2.01
P1 24 20m Trad If Eternity Road is too easy for you, have a go at this thin crack to the left. Small gear and increasing difficulty. An easier, earlier version (Bran) was climbed by John Howard traversing into New Horizons at the horizontal feature.
41	41Eternity Road, 22	22	20m		3
P1 22 20m Trad Mega-classic finger crack. Charge up the crack plugging gear and preparing yourself for when the crack narrows and rejects your fingers.
	Avant Gardener, 21	21	12m		1.02
P1 21 12m Trad From the Eternity Road belay climb the wall, placing gear in the thin crack, and continue up a short corner into the trees.
42	42Bizarete, 22	22	34m	5	3
P1 22 22m 5 The searing sharp arête. It’s a long way to the first bolt but the climbing is on generous pockets and well below the grade on this section. Proceed with care and then style your way up to the classic technical arête crux high up. P2 20 12m 3 It’s well worth continuing up the arête – either as a second pitch or as a single long pitch.
43	43Sayonara, 17	17	15m		1.02
P1 17 15m Trad Straight up the crack from the tree. Say goodbye to hand jams as the crack steadily narrows. Finishes to the right. Worth doing despite the vegetation. The second pitch, however…
44	44Wedgewood, 15	15	8m		0
P1 15 8m Trad The hand and offwidth crack in the corner.
	Old Mr Stoney and His Two Boney Fingers, 23	23	8m	3	0
P1 23 8m 3 Boney fingers may fit more easily into the small pockets on this short wall. Best to start up Wedgwood. A #3 cam may be useful to protect getting to the first bolt. Ring anchors.
	Unnamed, 15	15	8m	3	0
P1 15 8m 3 A random bolted face climb.
45	45This Climb Is A Lemon, 13	13	8m		0
P1 13 8m Trad Climb the crack or the pockets, placing gear in the crack. You may think the name is a negative one, but lemons are a truly wonderful fruit that are high in vitamin C and provide many health benefits.
46	46Small Pocks, 19	19	9m	4	1.02
P1 19 9m 4 Better than the great pox! Climb straight up the pillar through pockets, harder than it first appears.
	More Pocks, 19	19	9m	4	0
P1 19 9m 4 Another line to the right of Small Pocks, in similar grade and style.

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UUID

9e2e6008-c09c-4747-b3b2-0c1c07dcdce1