Warwick Castle (South Face, Centre & Right Side)

(5 routes)

Warwick Castle is the distinctive crescent shaped formation on the east profile of the mountain as seen from New Plymouth. Most climbs are on the south face, which can mean a cool belay even on a fine sunny day.
This crag gives both excellent short routes at moderate grades as well as some of the best long routes on the mountain. There is a good weekend’s climbing on Warwick Castle alone.

Beyond the blocky ground below Bop Girl, Sun and Fun the cliff again becomes more vertical, but split at about half height by blocky overhangs. The next two routes go through these overhangs.
The twin columns forming the roofs of the following two routes are very distinctive. This is the first worthwhile route below the broken ground to the right of Fun.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
1600m
Aspect: 
South
Access: 

It is about 30 minutes walk from Tahurangi Lodge, or about 1 hr up from the Stratford Plateau.

To descend either abseil off, or walk along the spine of the ridge towards Lion Rock. The spine or arête of the ridge is considered a good scramble and not to be underestimated. You may desire the protection of a rope at certain places.

Lat/Lon: 
-39.296115000000, 174.084377000000
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 The Stoned Crows 19 35m
0
wire representing trad
This is a more challenging variant of F.M. Start as for F.M. Belay just above overhang. This route then takes the arête about 2m to the left of F.M. Climb arête starting at the very lip of the overhang. Use crack to your left for protection only. A necky route but fine climbing.
Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, 06/03/85.
2 F.M. 20 40m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the large crack in the right facing corner to the overhangs. Move slightly left and climb a shallow groove through the overhangs (crux) then out to the top.
Kevin Conaglen, Nick Banks, 28/11/81.
3 Jeckyl and Hide 22 45m
0
wire representing trad
Located just up from broken area at bottom end of cliff. Climb crack, smearing on tiny nubbins to small, mossy ledge at 25m. Belay from cracks at left and small cams under flake. Climb up and over small roof, undercling, then dyno for high hold. Bridge to finish.
Kevin Conaglen, Chris Prudden. 18/2/00
4 Fang 22 40m
2.01
wire representing trad
A deep vee with a ‘fang’ like spike protruding from the top of the groove.
Kevin Conaglen, Dave Bolger, 15/01/00.
1 Los Calzones 12 12m
0
wire representing trad
Big crack at the very bottom end of Warwick Castle.
Kevin Conaglen, Nigel Shepherd, 18/04/82.