Jonathan Livingston Steelfingers

The Nose of the Organ Pipes, between Left Nostril and Right Nostril. Starts from dead centre of the arête. Classic face route on superb rock with crux near the top—the site of a now-chopped bolt. Lionel Clay chopped the bolt because the route was still being tried with clean protection by himself, Richard Kirk and Phil Roberts. Lionel claims the first ‘boltless’ ascent (with rehearsal). This route was presented as a ‘last unsolved problem’ in the previous edition of the guide and it required ‘someone with steel fingers and nerves. The full name comes from an article by Peter Livesey published in the 1980s in a British magazine.