2. NZ
  3. North Island
  4. Taranaki
  5. Taranaki Mt Egmont
  6. Hongis Valley
  7. The Prow

The Prow

(10 routes)

On the northern side of Hongis Valley, regarded as a remarkably good area
The Prow. Although the routes are not hard to protect, a good belay anchor at the top may be difficult to find.
Descent is by climbing down to the top of The Prow, and then traversing north and down.

Type: 
Wall
Altitude: 
1600m
Aspect: 
East
New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-39.288874000000, 174.080172000000
NZMS260: 
P20 032 124
Topo50: 
BJ29 932 506
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Weetbix 15 10m
0
 wire representing trad
Starts 10m left of Suitcase. Climb broken blocks to ledge then straight up face with two clean cracks. Mossy exit. Starts 10m left of Suitcase. Climb broken blocks to ledge then straight up face with two clean cracks. Mossy exit.
Dave Bolger, 02/91.
Suitcase 15 10m
0
 wire representing trad
Starts 10m to 12m left of Deja Vu. Climb the face below obvious cleft in rock. Squeeze through cleft to gain access to wall above. Climb corner. Protection in upper corner is abysmal, like the climb. Not on the topo.
Pete Swanson, John Edwards, 01/83.
6 Deja Vu 18 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Start as for Almost But Not Quite but traverse left on the ledge and climb the corner exiting direct over the overhang. A direct start (14) has also been done by Kevin Conaglen, but beware of loose rock. Since the original ascents the stepping stone which provided access to the groove on the second part of the climb has been removed due to overzealous gardening. Climb has now revegetated.
Stuart Skene, Andy Harris, 13/03/82.
5 Almost But Not Quite 18 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the short flaky wall direct to the bulge. Climb the bulge by the prominent crack arriving on a ledge below an in-situ peg. Climb the groove above to a second fixed peg. Exit by mantleshelf on right lip.
Andy Harris, 21/03/82.
4 Fungus the Bogeyman 16 15m
0
 wire representing trad
Starts at the crack to the left of West Coast Joe. Follow the rusty pitons directly up the arête to the top via the overhang. Fungus the Bogeyman is the title of a book by Raymond Briggs which is highly recommended (do the climb, read the book, listen to the opera).
Pete Swanson, C Brownson, Mike O’Donnell, 03/83.
3 West Coast Joe 14 15m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Starts 8m to 10m from Shoelace. Moves up into a large corner then step right under the overhang and up the arête. A pleasant climb.
Pete Swanson, John Edwards, 01/82. Direct finish (16): Swanson, Edwards, 01/83.
2 Shoelace 16 6m
0
 wire representing trad
The wide crack between the nose block and the rest of the cliff.
Pete Swanson, John Edwards.
1 Black Sunday 16 6m
0
 wire representing trad
The obvious crack which splits the nose block.
Pete Swanson, John Edwards.
Exporter 16 12m
0
 wire representing trad
Starts 5m right of Wild Thing. Move around a bulge and straight up broken face. Crux is at mid-height.
Bruce Sinton, Dave Bolger, K Hughes, 1989.
Wild Thing 17 12m
0
 wire representing trad
15m right of The Prow. Starts at small overhang. Layback short crack, then climb overhand on positive holds to massive ledge. Follow shallow groove past a peg to the top.
Andrew Walton, Ross Hoffman, 1990.