Valley Road Crag

Type

Altitude

100m

Part of

Limestone crag with routes up to 12 meters with routes for all ages and abilities.
Majority of routs have double bolt anchors at the top

External links

/nz/ni/northland/waipu-caves-farm-park

Walktime

10 minutes

Aspect

East

Lat/lon

-35.934805555556,174.36525, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

AX30 231 222

Approach

All climbers must register at the office of Waipu Caves Farm Park at 567 Waipu Caves Road and pay a small fee of $5 which helps cover maintenance including periodic water-blasting. From the office all 3 crags are with 300m to 500m. There is camping available onsite at $15 per person per night if you wish to stay (note that if you are camping, climbing is at no extra cost). Rules on site include, fees must be paid before climbing, all climbers and belayers must wear a helmet, No free climbing without ropes, No adding/modifying/changing bolts or hangers. You are always responsible for your own safety. FYI, there are sometimes schools booked to climb and they have first rights to access, however it is unlikely all 3 crags would be booked. You will be told on arrival which crags are available.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	(1) Jade's Challenge, 22	22	8m	4	0
P1 22 8m 4 Follow the line of bolts up the steep face on Slopers and small holds to the last bolt on the roof. mantel the roof and walk off the top or rap off the Totara tree
	(2) The Inner Pickle, 14	14	8m		0
P1 14 8m Climb the chimney direct to the anchor. Keep near the opening, too deep and you will be the inner pickle
	(3) Doritos, 16	16	8m	2	0
P1 16 8m 2 Crux start for shorter people. Climb the face direct to a solid stance at first bolt, then through mild terrain past second bolt to the anchor
	(4) Family Pack 1, 14	14	8m	2	0
P1 14 8m 2 Climb the face just to the right of the arete following the line of bolts
	(5) Family Pack 2, 14	14	8m	3	0
P1 14 8m 3 Climb the face then gain the arete after the first bolt
	(6) No Refund 1, 19	19	10m		0
P1 19 10m Climb straight up the off width crack before tending right towards the arete near the top to gain the anchors
	(7) No Refund 2, 20	20	10m		0
P1 20 10m Climb straight up the off width crack then traverse left at blank face
	(8) No Refund 3, 18	18	10m		0
P1 18 10m climb the chimney to gain the large ledge then step across the gap and finish up the right
	(9) Its Complicated 1, 17	17	6m		0
P1 17 6m Start from the boulder to gain the crack, then layback up to the ledge.
	(10) It's Complicated 2, 19	19	6m		0
P1 19 6m From below the boulder, jump to a free hanging start then move left onto the face. Big move to the ledge then up easy ground to the anchor
	(11) It's Complicated 3, 25	25	6m		0
P1 25 6m From the name tag, climb the face direct.
	(12) Kane's Excitement 1, 18	18	12m	4	0
P1 18 12m 4 Climb into the diagonal off width, then slide up until the start of the protruding rock. follow the small crack to reach the ledged then direct to the anchor
	(13) Kane's Excitement 2, 18	18	12m	4	0
P1 18 12m 4 Climb into the diagonal off width, then slide up to and continue past the protruding rock to reach the ledge. Then direct to the anchor
	(14) Long Reach, 22	22	12m		0
P1 22 12m From the large opening at the base, climb up tending right with long reaches (crux). Once at the ledge climbs direct to the anchors through the small roof
	(15) Go Zoe, 20	20	11m	3	0
P1 20 11m 3 Bump through reasonable holds to reach the small ledge then easy moves to the bolts
	(16) Corynocarpus, 19	19	10m	3	0
P1 19 10m 3 Climb the face tending right of the first two bolts. Currently no anchor bolts but is an easy scramble off with bolted protection or move right to the anchor of "Go Zoe"
	(17) Watch My Bum, 21	21	6m		0
P1 21 6m Climb the slightly overhung face using both aretes. Good holds to finish. Currently no anchor bolts. Use the anchor bolts for "Go Zoe" and "Jug Lug" or the access bolt to set up a suitable anchor.
	(18) Hobbit Hole, 14	14	6m		0
P1 14 6m Climb the small chimney to the roof
	(19) Jug Lug, 8	8	4m		0
P1 8 4m A short juggy route great for kids or someone learning the basics of cleaning anchors
	(20) Foxy Loxy, 10	10	5m		0
P1 10 5m A good step up from "Jug Lug" with good but spaced out holds provoking more thought and movement. another good sport for learning to clean an anchor
	(21) Connor Stewart, 12	12	4m		0
P1 12 4m Climb the short chimney with rests along the way. for a more challenging climb, layback the arete all the way to the bolts and dont touch the opposite wall (15)
	(22) Astelia Rise, 14	14	5m		0
P1 14 5m A cruxy start under the bolder. Mantle the bolder then direct to the anchor
	(23) Tahi's First, 13	13	6m		0
P1 13 6m Climb the chimney and wedged boulders to reach the top face with solid holds
	(24) Middle Earth, 16	16	6m		0
P1 16 6m A slightly overhung cruxy start to a slabby finish tending left towards the arete
	(25) Smash 'n' Grab, 19	19	5m		0
P1 19 5m Climb the overhung face tending right around the arete

Comments

UUID

9e507e23-9772-4f8b-a1fc-861449dcb54c