Milky Way Crag | ClimbNZ

Type

Crag

Altitude

100m

Part of

Waipu Caves Farm Park

Walktime

10 Minutes

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-35.9367602,174.3623228, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

AX30 231 222

Approach

All climbers must register at the office of Waipu Caves Farm Park at 567 Waipu Caves Road and pay a small fee of $5 which helps cover maintenance including periodic water-blasting. From the office all 3 crags are with 300m to 500m. There is camping available onsite at $15 per person per night if you wish to stay (note that if you are camping, climbing is at no extra cost). Rules on site include, fees must be paid before climbing, all climbers and belayers must wear a helmet, No free climbing without ropes, No adding/modifying/changing bolts or hangers. You are always responsible for your own safety. FYI, there are sometimes schools booked to climb and they have first rights to access, however it is unlikely all 3 crags would be booked. You will be told on arrival which crags are available.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	(1) Foxy's Ladder, 13	13	5m	0
P1 13 5m Climb on good holds left or right of the knob then left onto the final face
	(2) Boulderstack 1, 10	10	4m	0
P1 10 4m Big holds all the way to the anchor. big platform at the anchor makes for good a learning site.
	(3) Boulderstack 2, 18	18	5m	0
P1 18 5m Drop in through the hole below the anchor and climb back out following your rope
	(4) Conundrum 1, 19	19	6m	0
P1 19 6m Climb the slightly overhung face on the right to the obvious weakness
	(5) Conundrum 2, 23	23	6m	0
P1 23 6m start on the left at the flakey crack then traverse right on the face on small holds and finish as Conundrum 1
	(6) Podocarpus 1, 20	20	7m	0
P1 20 7m start right by the Totara for a reachey start, and follow up the left side of the arete
	(7) Podocarpus 2, 20	20	7m	0
P1 20 7m start on the point with crimps and the option of a cheeky kneebar if you want it
	(8) Podocarpus 3, 19	19	7m	0
P1 19 7m Take the left side for slopers with good foot placement
	(9) Cappers 1, 16	16	12m	0
P1 16 12m Start to the right and up the bumpy face next to the ferns before tending left towards the anchors
	(10) Cappers 2, 18	18	12m	0
P1 18 12m Straight up the guts then tend right before the small roof on ballancy terrain
	(11) Happy Kurt 1, 17	17	12m	0
P1 17 12m start straight into the opening to reach the hollow
	(12) Happy Kurt 2, 19	19	12m	0
P1 19 12m Start left of the tag and come up just left of the hollow then keep right of the arete to reach the anchor.
	(13) Moana's Challenge 1, 22	22	12m	0
P1 22 12m Start under the roof keeping left of the arete then follow the obvious line to the anchors
	(14) Moana's Challenge 2, 20	20	12m	0
P1 20 12m climb direct starting at the rocky steps. then tend right around the middle of the face
	(15) Jade Fox Way 1, 19	19	11m	0
P1 19 11m Climb the grove then move right through the slot
	(16) Jade Fox Way 2, 18	18	11m	0
P1 18 11m Climb the grove then tend left at the top and mantel
	(17) Lilly's Middle, 16	16	10m	0
P1 16 10m Climb the groovy chimney and top out on the right to reach the anchor
	(18) The Inner Crevice , 15	15	10m	0
P1 15 10m Climb through the hollow and into the crevice above

Comments

UUID

ce08656b-c0a3-4b53-972c-69cdad905b64