The Top Rocks have a number of quality short climbs of varying difficulty and some testing boulder problems. Please stay on the reserve side of any fences and respect residents’ privacy.
Boulder Problems
Goliath, Start left of Creaky Tree, traverse right, keeping low, to BOG and ascend.
Creaky Tree, Climb up to bolt.
The Spit, Traverse left from Lop to finish just past Old Man Of Hoy.
Sloping Shinney, Traverse left to fi nish past Epiphyte Massacre.
Bob, Ascend the overhanging arete just left of Bob.
Old Man of Hoy, Climb to first bolt.
Also, the boulders near the entrance track offer various short problems.
Type:
Wall

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Sunshine Daydream | 23 |
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Sam Russek, 2012
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1 | Creaky Tree | 21 | 8m |
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The rounded arete with one hangerless bolt.
Crux is getting off the ground. Tree belay.
Paul Hersey, 1992
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2 | Pump Loonies | 21 | 8m |
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Just right of Creaky Tree. Originally soloed,
but a bolt was later put in for sanity reasons.
Fingery.
Paul Hersey, 1993
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3 | Madness and Mayhem | 22 | 8m |
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Technical and sustained moves past 2 bolts and
over a bulge. Belay chain.
Hugh Nicholson, Paul Hersey, 1993
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4 | I Hate Spiders | 14 | 5m |
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A shallow scoop at the right-hand end of the
same face. More of a boulder problem, but
listed because it is an easy access route.
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5 | B O G | 15 | 5m |
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The bulgy arete with no protection. Has a
good sequence of heel hooks to avoid any
dynos. Usually started with butt on ground
(B O G).
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6 | The Friend | 14 | 6m |
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Starts next to the fence, climb past a horizontal
break and shallow vertical grooves to the ledge.
Chain belay.
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7 | Sweet 16 | 15 | 6m |
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Obvious crack left of The Friend. Natural
protection. Finishes at same ledge.
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8 | Lop | 16 | 6m |
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Good footwork needed to get to and past
single bolt, and onto the ledge. Tough if
you’re short.
Gavin Harrison, 1988
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9 | Old Man of Hoy | 22 | 9m |
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The rounded arete with two bolts. Small but
positive holds. Belay/abseil chain.
Richard Dale, Paul Hersey, 1994
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10 | Sloping Shinney | 14 | 4m |
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A slabby boulder problem, just right of the
tree. Top-rope bolt.
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11 | Epiphyte Massacre | 16 | 5m |
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Just left of the tree on the same slab. Nut
placements if needed, step right at top to find
belay bolt.
Hamish Pirie, 1996
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12 | Hugh’s Hump | 15 | 8m |
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Hugh loved this grubby bridging problem so
much he soloed it. Since had two bolts and
belay chain added. Hump up both walls to
gain the top.
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Nga Madness | 17 |
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Sam Russek, 2012
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13 | Killer Prawns | 14 | 7m |
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The shallow groove with natural protection
and an abseil chain.
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14 | Poopsy’s Climb | 17 | 8m |
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Just left of Killer Prawns, climb the wee
edge-arete thingee with 3 bolts (one without
hanger). Use Killer Prawns abseil chain.
Simon Bruce, 1996
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15 | Killapaul | 23 | 7m |
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Start as for Poopsy’s Climb, but swing left up
the prominent overhanging arete. First ascent
involved a groin hold at the crux, so could be a
good idea to pre-clip the bolt. Finishes at the
second bolt. Pretty pumpy.
Paul Hersey, 1996
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16 | Living on a Razor Edge | 20 | 8m |
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Layback the wide crack to gain the rounded
arete. Climb past 2 bolts, sliding left to a shallow
ledge. Threaded sling for pro, then straight
up the vertical grooves. Tree belay well back.
Paul Hersey 1996
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Bro Cracked It Bro | 24 |
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17 | Mosquito Eating Man | 14 | 8m |
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Just left of Living On A Razor Edge, bridge up
past bulbous ledge to chain belay. Use the same
threaded sling as previous climb for pro.
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18 | Bob | 15 | 9m |
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Left of Mosquito Eating Man, step off the small
rock, and follow shallow grooves up arete to
same belay point. Natural protection (hexes
and nuts).
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19 | Pervert | 14 | 8m |
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Starts on the opposite side of the arete, bridge
up groove to arete and finish as same for Bob.
Nut placements near top.
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20 | Sunrise Slab | 15 | 5m |
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A couple of solo/toprope options on this slab
to reach the ledge. Belay bolt.
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Attribution:
PaulHersey
UUID:
6ade9a17-5adf-48a2-9d0c-3765eaddd9f9