The Main Crag

(20 routes)

The Main Crag has climbs as high as 35m, with a great airy feel on the main face. Descent is by abseil or walk off .
Bouldering
Starlight Wall, Traverse low down from Mighty Twenty Footer to finish opposite Crinkle Slab.
The Lay Back, Low-level traverse.
Crinkle Slab, Boulder/solo up either arete.
Mosquitos On Steriods, Climb to the ledge.
Waves of Motion, Traverse from the left arete to finish on the block past I Don’t Want A Job.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 The Lay Back 15 8m
0
wire representing trad
The obvious layback crack at the right-hand end of the block. A bit close to the house this one, so climb with discretion.
2 Waves of Motion 19 9m
1.02
2bolts
Up the middle of the laid back face, past two bolts to chain belay.
Paul Hersey 1996
3 I Don’t Want a Job 24 9m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The steep arete just right of Waves Of Motion, with two bolts. A fine sequence of moves with an undercling rest past the second bolt. Optional natural pro near the top, but all the hard stuff is at the start. First bolt is usually pre-clipped, belay bolt at top.
Paul Hersey 1996
4 Gripless 16 9m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The groovy slab (Crinkle Slab) is climbed direct, without using either arete. One bolt, and tree belay.
Hamish Pirie 1996
5 Wild Side of Life 16 10m
0
wire representing trad
Just down from Crinkle Slab is the Starlight Wall. On the corner is a slab capped by a wide crack and arete. Natural pro and belay bolt.
6 Instinct 15 10m
0
wire representing trad
Further right is a wide crack to a ledge. Exit right to top. Belay bolt.
7 Don’t Try Suicide 15 10m
0
wire representing trad
The left slanting crack in the middle of the wall. Same finish as for previous climb. Natural pro.
8 Choss Route 15 10m
0
wire representing trad
A series of broken ledges and cracks, with some loose blocks. Not a classic. Belay bolt.
9 Mosquitos on Steroids 16 25m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Starts up the obvious layback by the huge hanging vine. Move over loose blocks to ledge, continue up angled face past one bolt to chain belay. Plenty of natural pro where needed.
Hamish Pirie, 1996
10 Two Chockstones 15 25m
0
wire representing trad
Just right of Mosquitos On Steroids, the off width with 2 large blocks. Natural pro.
11 Suburban Reptile 17 25m
1.02
3bolts
Opposite Mosquitos On Steroids, bridge up rounded groove past 1 peg and 2 bolts to horizontal break. Straight up face above past third bolt to belay chain.
Hamish Pirie, 1996
12 Mighty Twenty Footer 15 30m
1.02
wire representing trad
Start as for Suburban Reptile, but at the peg traverse right to ledge and around corner. Climb straight up past horizontal breaks to top. Three pegs and natural pro. A nice route.
13 Groovy Green Thing 17 30m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Downhill from Starlight Wall is this strange and committing climb on an otherwise blank face. Easy ground leads to a right slanting crack and two bolts. Ascend with increasing difficulty (leave the next bolt on the right) till 2 bolts close together are reached. Move onto arete with nice moves past another bolt and peg. Belay chain.
Paul Hersey, Richard Dale 1994
14 Sticky’s Web 19 30m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
The steep arete downhill from previous climb. Climb past 2 bolts on the right of arete, move left at second bolt to knee bar and threaded sling. A long sling at the poorly situated third bolt around corner will reduce rope drag. Finish up the arete as for Groovy Green Thing.
Richard Dale, Paul Hersey 1994
15 Madonna 17 30m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Gain the large ledge just right of Sticky’s Web, either by sidling in from the left or climbing the layback crack direct. Tend slightly right and up to a large crack. Ascend this, step left to the bolt, then finish up the arete as for previous 2 routes. Natural pro (nuts and friends), bolts and pegs.
Gavin Cox, 1988
16 The Crow 22 30m
1.02
8bolts
This is an airy sustained climb with crux moves near the top. Gain the same ledge as for Madonna, but tend right (steep climbing) past two bolts to a large vertical crack. Follow this till a balancy step can be made left . Hardish face moves lead up to and through a bulge to the top. 7 or 8 bolts and belay chain.
Paul Hersey, 1995
17 Spiritwalker 17 35m
1.02
wire representing trad
A large steep crack (by a tree) leads to a slab top-out. Crux is moving from the crack to the slab. Heaps of natural pro through the whole route. Tree belay/abseil. Pleasant line that will improve with traffic.
Paul Hersey, Hamish Pirie, 1996
Deeply Superficial 16 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
The crack immediately right of Spiritwalker. Crux is gaining the scoop. Bolts and natural pro.
Chris North, Guy White, 1996
That’ll Do 19 15m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Starts on top of the block left of Spiritwalker. Follow cracks up (natural pro) to overhang (bolt). Pull over into scoop (crux), then up the ramp to finish up sharp left -hand arete. Chain belay.
Guy White, Chris North, 1996
18 A Nalp Assage 14 6m
0
Short bridging route done to get to the top of the Groove Wall. No pro.
Attribution: 
Paul Hersey