The Main Crag

The obvious layback crack at the right-hand
end of the block. Right beside a house, possibly inside the property line (homeowner has installed a small fence blocking access to the base of the climb). Please do not climb this until access rights can be verified and owners permission granted.

Up the middle of the laid back face, past two
bolts to chain belay.

The steep arete just right of Waves Of Motion,
with two bolts. A fine sequence of moves
with an undercling rest past the second bolt.
Optional natural pro near the top, but all the
hard stuff is at the start. First bolt is usually
pre-clipped, belay bolt at top.

The groovy slab (Crinkle Slab) is climbed
direct, without using either arete. One bolt,
and tree belay.

Just down from Crinkle Slab is the Starlight
Wall. On the corner is a slab capped by a wide
crack and arete. Natural pro and belay bolt.

Further right is a wide crack to a ledge. Exit
right to top. Belay bolt.

The left slanting crack in the middle of the
wall. Same finish as for previous climb.
Natural pro.

A series of broken ledges and cracks, with some
loose blocks. Not a classic. Belay bolt.

Starts up the obvious layback by the huge
hanging vine. Move over loose blocks to ledge,
continue up angled face past one bolt to chain
belay. Plenty of natural pro where needed.

Just right of Mosquitos On Steroids, the
off width with 2 large blocks. Natural pro.

Opposite Mosquitos On Steroids, bridge up rounded groove (optional gear) then past 2 bolts, left to horizontal break. Straight up face above past two more bolts to anchor/lower-off. All bolts have been replaced with modern hardware.

Start as for Suburban Reptile, but at the first bolt traverse right to ledge and around corner. Climb straight up past the main line of weakness and horizontal breaks to top anchor (lower off). The bolts on Guidebook can be clipped for protection, but for the original value, this should be trad climbed.

Start just right of Suburban Reptile, and move right to the arete (bolt). DIrectly up (crux) to ledge, then directly up the face following bolts. Lower off.

Downhill from Starlight Wall is this strange
and committing climb on an otherwise blank
face. Easy ground leads to a right slanting
crack and two bolts. Ascend with increasing
difficulty (leave the next bolt on the right) till
2 bolts close together are reached. Move onto
arete with nice moves past another bolt and
peg. Belay chain.

The steep arete downhill from previous climb.
Climb past 2 bolts on the right of arete, move
left at second bolt to knee bar and threaded
sling. A long sling at the poorly situated third
bolt around corner will reduce rope drag.
Finish up the arete as for Groovy Green
Thing.

Gain the large ledge just right of Sticky’s Web,
either by sidling in from the left or climbing
the layback crack direct. Tend slightly right
and up to a large crack. Ascend this, step left to
the bolt, then finish up the arete as for previous
2 routes. Natural pro (nuts and friends),
bolts and pegs.

This is an airy sustained climb with crux
moves near the top. Gain the same ledge as for
Madonna, but tend right (steep climbing) past
two bolts to a large vertical crack. Follow this
till a balancy step can be made left . Hardish
face moves lead up to and through a bulge to
the top. 7 or 8 bolts and belay chain.

A large steep crack (by a tree) leads to a slab
top-out. Crux is moving from the crack to the
slab. Heaps of natural pro through the whole
route. Tree belay/abseil. Pleasant line that will
improve with traffic.

The crack immediately right of Spiritwalker.
Crux is gaining the scoop. Bolts and natural
pro.

Starts on top of the block left of Spiritwalker.
Follow cracks up (natural pro) to overhang
(bolt). Pull over into scoop (crux), then up
the ramp to finish up sharp left -hand arete.
Chain belay.

Short bridging route done to get to the top of the Groove Wall. No pro.