The Main Crag has climbs as high as 35m, with a great airy feel on the main face. Descent is by abseil or walk off .
Bouldering
Starlight Wall, Traverse low down from Mighty Twenty Footer to finish opposite Crinkle Slab.
The Lay Back, Low-level traverse.
Crinkle Slab, Boulder/solo up either arete.
Mosquitos On Steriods, Climb to the ledge.
Waves of Motion, Traverse from the left arete to finish on the block past I Don’t Want A Job.
Type:
Wall
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 1 | The Lay Back | 15 | 8m |
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The obvious layback crack at the right-hand
end of the block. A bit close to the house this
one, so climb with discretion.
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| 2 | Waves of Motion | 19 | 9m |
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2 |
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Up the middle of the laid back face, past two
bolts to chain belay.
Paul Hersey 1996
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| 3 | I Don’t Want a Job | 24 | 9m |
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1 |
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The steep arete just right of Waves Of Motion,
with two bolts. A fine sequence of moves
with an undercling rest past the second bolt.
Optional natural pro near the top, but all the
hard stuff is at the start. First bolt is usually
pre-clipped, belay bolt at top.
Paul Hersey 1996
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| 4 | Gripless | 16 | 9m |
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1 |
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The groovy slab (Crinkle Slab) is climbed
direct, without using either arete. One bolt,
and tree belay.
Hamish Pirie 1996
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| 5 | Wild Side of Life | 16 | 10m |
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Just down from Crinkle Slab is the Starlight
Wall. On the corner is a slab capped by a wide
crack and arete. Natural pro and belay bolt.
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| 6 | Instinct | 15 | 10m |
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Further right is a wide crack to a ledge. Exit
right to top. Belay bolt.
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| 7 | Don’t Try Suicide | 15 | 10m |
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The left slanting crack in the middle of the
wall. Same finish as for previous climb.
Natural pro.
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| 8 | Choss Route | 15 | 10m |
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A series of broken ledges and cracks, with some
loose blocks. Not a classic. Belay bolt.
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| 9 | Mosquitos on Steroids | 16 | 25m |
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1 |
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Starts up the obvious layback by the huge
hanging vine. Move over loose blocks to ledge,
continue up angled face past one bolt to chain
belay. Plenty of natural pro where needed.
Hamish Pirie, 1996
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| 10 | Two Chockstones | 15 | 25m |
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Just right of Mosquitos On Steroids, the
off width with 2 large blocks. Natural pro.
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| 11 | Suburban Reptile | 17 | 25m |
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3 |
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Opposite Mosquitos On Steroids, bridge up
rounded groove past 1 peg and 2 bolts to
horizontal break. Straight up face above past
third bolt to belay chain.
Hamish Pirie, 1996
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| 12 | Mighty Twenty Footer | 15 | 30m |
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Start as for Suburban Reptile, but at the peg
traverse right to ledge and around corner.
Climb straight up past horizontal breaks
to top. Three pegs and natural pro. A nice
route.
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| 13 | Groovy Green Thing | 17 | 30m |
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2 |
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Downhill from Starlight Wall is this strange
and committing climb on an otherwise blank
face. Easy ground leads to a right slanting
crack and two bolts. Ascend with increasing
difficulty (leave the next bolt on the right) till
2 bolts close together are reached. Move onto
arete with nice moves past another bolt and
peg. Belay chain.
Paul Hersey, Richard Dale 1994
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| 14 | Sticky’s Web | 19 | 30m |
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3 |
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The steep arete downhill from previous climb.
Climb past 2 bolts on the right of arete, move
left at second bolt to knee bar and threaded
sling. A long sling at the poorly situated third
bolt around corner will reduce rope drag.
Finish up the arete as for Groovy Green
Thing.
Richard Dale, Paul Hersey 1994
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| 15 | Madonna | 17 | 30m |
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2 |
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Gain the large ledge just right of Sticky’s Web,
either by sidling in from the left or climbing
the layback crack direct. Tend slightly right
and up to a large crack. Ascend this, step left to
the bolt, then finish up the arete as for previous
2 routes. Natural pro (nuts and friends),
bolts and pegs.
Gavin Cox, 1988
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| 16 | The Crow | 22 | 30m |
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8 |
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This is an airy sustained climb with crux
moves near the top. Gain the same ledge as for
Madonna, but tend right (steep climbing) past
two bolts to a large vertical crack. Follow this
till a balancy step can be made left . Hardish
face moves lead up to and through a bulge to
the top. 7 or 8 bolts and belay chain.
Paul Hersey, 1995
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| 17 | Spiritwalker | 17 | 35m |
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A large steep crack (by a tree) leads to a slab
top-out. Crux is moving from the crack to the
slab. Heaps of natural pro through the whole
route. Tree belay/abseil. Pleasant line that will
improve with traffic.
Paul Hersey, Hamish Pirie, 1996
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| Deeply Superficial | 16 | 20m |
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2 |
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The crack immediately right of Spiritwalker.
Crux is gaining the scoop. Bolts and natural
pro.
Chris North, Guy White, 1996
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| That’ll Do | 19 | 15m |
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1 |
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Starts on top of the block left of Spiritwalker.
Follow cracks up (natural pro) to overhang
(bolt). Pull over into scoop (crux), then up
the ramp to finish up sharp left -hand arete.
Chain belay.
Guy White, Chris North, 1996
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| 18 | A Nalp Assage | 14 | 6m |
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Short bridging route done to get to the top of
the Groove Wall. No pro.
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Attribution:
Paul Hersey