Slab Route

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
3
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11215mYes
 

This was one of the first recorded climbs in
Northland. Originally done in alpine boots
and with none of the “trendy” pro used today,
the route has become somewhat overgrown.
Later attempts have struggled to find the
original line; treat the description with circumspection.
To find the start look for some vegetated guts
down and left from Force 10. The slab is on
the left of the guts and is marked by a quasi
“Z” shaped crack.
Either scramble up some easy
ground on the right and traverse left across a
tree filled gut to the start of the slab proper,
or climb directly up a short steep section
below the slab.

240mYes
 

Traverse the main slab up and
left past an old bolt, heading for a large cave
on the left.

320mYes
 

From the cave head up a sloping
slab on the far left of the overhang to a
chockstone filled crack. Climb the crack and
find a belay.

425mYes
 

Traverse right to a slab then up
to earthy ledges. Head right to a crack then up
easily to summit overhangs.

515mYes
 

From the top of the crack move
right to a large ledge and sloping slabs which
lead to the summit.

Grade: 
12 , , , ,
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
115m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Peter Clement, George Carr, 1962
UUID: 
8dc0111b-3089-4947-930a-12974cae7281

Comments

Hi, just wondering if anyone has any up-to-date information about this route? Seems like it could be overgrown but wondering if anyone know more about it? Any other route information would be greatly appreciated. Good protection? And any tips of finding the start would also be great.