Slab Route

This was one of the first recorded climbs in
Northland. Originally done in alpine boots
and with none of the “trendy” pro used today,
the route has become somewhat overgrown.
Later attempts have struggled to find the
original line; treat the description with circumspection.
To find the start look for some vegetated guts
down and left from Force 10. The slab is on
the left of the guts and is marked by a quasi
“Z” shaped crack.
Either scramble up some easy
ground on the right and traverse left across a
tree filled gut to the start of the slab proper,
or climb directly up a short steep section
below the slab.

Traverse the main slab up and
left past an old bolt, heading for a large cave
on the left.

From the cave head up a sloping
slab on the far left of the overhang to a
chockstone filled crack. Climb the crack and
find a belay.

Traverse right to a slab then up
to earthy ledges. Head right to a crack then up
easily to summit overhangs.

From the top of the crack move
right to a large ledge and sloping slabs which
lead to the summit.