Mangaraho

West Ridge 60m Head up the main ridge on easy ground and over a rock nose. Scramble up to the next buttress and belay. A suitable anchor can be difficult to arrange. From here there are four variations for the second pitch.

Move to an obvious detached flake on the left of the buttress. Bridge up this, stepping onto the main face at the top. Follow a thin crack above, before making the crux move onto sloping ledges. Follow the line of least resistance over easy ground to the top.

Step It 15 35m From the buttress traverse right for 7 m to an obvious crack which leads to a large sloping grassy ledge. Climb the crack by bridging, and step left onto the ledge. Follow the ledge till it peters out then make a wide step left to a protruding foothold and jug. Head up and slightly right to trig.

Curly Top 17 30m Traverse as for Step It, but instead of climbing the crack, continue right across sloping slabs to a large earthy area. Climb the overhanging crack (originally aided) on the left and on to the top.

Climb the buttress direct, just on its righthand side, till reaching the same ledge as for Step It. Good pro here. Finish as for Step It.

The route starts below the West Ridge, and can be reached by abseiling off the obvious detached flake at the end of the first pitch of the West Ridge. Otherwise scramble up easy ground from the track. Look for a long clean right-leaning cornercrack which starts part way up the face: Find a belay stance some way below the crack. From the belay, scramble up towards a large ledge on the right, climb directly up the short wall to the start of the roof crack. Traverse right using jams and underclings to the lip. Crux is turning the lip and getting established in the corner. Follow the crack up and when it narrows move right to bridge up between two cracks (two pegs). Exit to the right of the block. Take cams 0–3, a couple of each size would be an advantage. Beware of rope drag, slings instead of quickdraws are a good idea.

This was one of the first recorded climbs in Northland. Originally done in alpine boots and with none of the “trendy” pro used today, the route has become somewhat overgrown. Later attempts have struggled to find the original line; treat the description with circumspection. To find the start look for some vegetated guts down and left from Force 10. The slab is on the left of the guts and is marked by a quasi “Z” shaped crack. Either scramble up some easy ground on the right and traverse left across a tree filled gut to the start of the slab proper, or climb directly up a short steep section below the slab.

To reach the next route head left along the track past some steep faces (good boulder traverse) to a large left leaning dihedral. This is the Dihedral Wall, and is easy to spot from the carpark. Climb easily up to the base of a shallow groove a few feet left of the dihedral. Head up the groove past a fixed nut, traversing left at the top of a ledge to two bolts. A bit run out. From here there are two options for continuing. Pitch

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

An enjoyable, airy climb, and the most direct line on the North Face. Climb the first two pitches of The Dihedral, avoiding the belay station at the end of the first pitch.

About 40m further left is a grassy bank. On the left is a slabby rock band, and this is the start. Climb the slab via small ledges and bridging near the top to a large grass covered bank and tree belay on left. Not much pro.

Down at the track walk left for a few metres where easy rock can be scrambled up to reach the same grassy bank as for the end of the first pitch of Green Eggs and Ham. Look for a dirty vertical crack. This is the start. Climb the crack to the cave. The original ascent used aid, but the pitch has since been freed. Scramble up and left along the tree covered ledge past steep walls until a line of least resistance becomes apparent.

From behind the boulder move up into a steep fingery layback to small ledge (2½ or 3 cam). Good pro (2 cam) on the left as you get out around the arete at two-thirds height and up to belay off trees. This route may extend and complete the 1972 attempt at the same site by Pete Jemmett and Robbie McBirney, labelled Hang It.

Looking up to the saddle this route follows a line of bolts tending right up the slabs. Follow the line of bolts heading right and up. About 10 bolts and chain belay. Rope drag gets awkward near top of pitch.

The line of bolts that go straight up to the saddle. Advisable to use double ropes or long slings to avoid rope drag. Crux is moving right near the top. Belay off iron spikes at saddle.

Just left of Zorne’s Lemon, this route meanders somewhat, but double ropes will reduce rope drag. Two bolts and slabby moves lead to cam placements and a short, steep wall. Strong moves up then delicate traverse right past two bolts to a rest. Step up and left, find an undercling and clip the bolt under the overhang. The next move has yet to be freed but, using the bolt for aid, make a difficult reach to the horizontal crack. Traverse left on strenuous underclings to a bolt, breathe, then delicately up the corner to a small grassy ledge. Two more bolts and fine moves lead to top and chain/tree belay.

Down and 20 m left of Full Moon Fantasy is a prominent angled groove. Climb the groove and at the top move left into a shallow depression (crux). Climb the depression to a bulging wall, make a difficult move right around the arete and up to the second bulging wall. Climb the thin crack in the wall to finish at a bolt on Trinity Slabs. Not a lot of pro.

About 6 m left of Slipper is the lowest point of the slabs, near the track. From the lowest point follow a shallow groove to a small ledge. Continue up another groove to a peg and cam placement. Step down and left onto a flake and ascend the awkward bulge to a small grassy ledge. Run out up the corner crack above and traverse right to a bolt (replacing the original rusted peg). Move past the bolt onto short slabs, tending right past another bolt. At the base of a large slab with a left slanting crack, scramble left and up through the bush to belay at the start of the next headwall.

Carry on up the track, and at the top turn left to drop down to the top of the climbs on the East Ridge area. Turn right and up the ridge. Ungradeable (dependent on footwear) but a fun slab. Provides access to the top of the Trinity Slabs area. It sort of looks like a mummy from side on if you squint your eyes and imagine.

To find the next se of routes, take the track that cuts round the bottom of the East Ridge area. Start at the lowest point on the right-hand side, climb the face and a couple of short awkward slabs. The top half has been retrobolted: follow the bolts left and up on nice slab moves. Chain belay.

Climb the middle of the face up to and past the bolts to chain belay. Can avoid the crux by moving left for a few metres. Makes the grade 18.

Starts high up on the left-hand side of the face. Climb the buttress to tree filled ledges, then up the bulge (originally aided) and easier ground above.

The next routes are found on the South Face: Sodom and Begorrah 13 80m Where the track passes some bushy slabs, climb behind the bush and up till an apparent line is reached. Climb the shallow groove to the right and follow a series of greasy slabs, grassy guts and ledges, taking the line of least resistance. The route can be greasy and wet. Not an obvious line.

A more obvious climb further along the track. Left of an overhang is a large angled cleft and slabs. Climb this, and scramble through scrub to the top.