Balance Bridge Area

A sit start boulder problem which goes up the face between (eliminating) the right edge and the massive lay back flake on the left.

This line is basiclly a face move, followed by a pull onto the ramp above. The crux is low, the top is PISS easy. As that this line shares the last bolt of "Jarhead," try to stay left of the bolt to keep the lines somewhat seperate. For the record, the first ascent was done just after the hangers had been placed.... with out any quick draws, harness or belayer! (2 bolts, DCB)

A fun face climb, just left of the arete. As with "The River So Low," the top bolt is shared so try and stay right of the 3rd bolt as you pass it on the way to the top. (3bolts, DCB)

4) project. This route starts with a very bouldery move and a "not so hot" landing so the first bolt was placed so it can be clipped from the cheater stone around the corner, making the first move protected from above. After pulling off the ground, follow the arete up and right to the highest point of the face and then up to the chains. (3 bolts, DCB)

The right hand face offers one beautiful, steep line with good holds and cool moves. (2 bolts, DCB)

This short, pocketed climb was originally lead using just a single tri-cam for protection but as that is was hard to protect before the crux and most kiwis don't have tri-cams.... the bolts were put in to make it fun for everyone. (2 bolts, DCB)

This climb offers cool, thought provoking slopers which lead to an easier, pocketed top out straight up the tall face in the middle of the rock. (3 bolts, DCB)

The right-hand line. Yes, the arete is in! Be careful of the top clip as that it is a bit reachy. (4 bolts, DCB)

This is the left of the 2 lines on the non-water side of the cliff. Although the line was originally sent by Matt Natti (after bolting, scrubbing, memorizing EVERY hold and practising the moves with an ascender while on top rope), Andy is given FULL credit for this route after sending the line a mere day or 2 after it was bolted..... on-site, at night (it was really dark), in the rain (it was REALLY wet) and with a slight beer buzz on (why else would you be out climbing in such conditions)!!! If you really want to do this route properly........ never mind, Andy is a nutter! (3 bolts, DCB)

This is the indirect start to "Impatience," which eliminates the washed out, bouldery, crux beginning moves. Start at the same belay ledge as "The Soggy Scottsman" but traverse right, using the painted bolt hanger as the first clip, until you get to the 3rd bolt of "Impatience." Finish straight up the wall to the "Impatience" belay.

This was the first line bolted by Matt in the Gorge. Originally this route was a grade 19. After the high waters of the '06-'07 winter, the banks have washed away a bit and now the start is a bit harder and a LOT lower than it was originally. As that the crux is within the first few moves, a new "first bolt" was added so that the start can be worked with less chance of injury. (5 bolts, DCB).

This highly satisfying line starts just before the drop off into the water. The crux, which offers a good burn that is over quick, lies in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt and is good for logging a bit of air time. Yes, the 4th bolt is a bit run out..... but if you can make it through the crux, the rest of the climb should just be no sweat. (4 bolts, DCB)

At the top of the cliff there are a few old bolts, which were the protection for the original climbs at Balance. The status quo for the "routes" on this face is a) get someone to lower you down and then top belay you, or b) set up a single line abseil, go down on a gri-gri and then belay yourself back up. Hopefully a way to place a platform at the bottom of this climb can be devised and a line of proper bolts can be placed. Of course, there is always the deep water solo option!