Balance Bridge Area

(13 routes)

Balance bridge offers the best "ground up" climbing in the gorge.
The Corner- In between Red Block and the Main Wall is a short, steep and
blank face. If the landing was better it would be a great boulder problem!
The Main Wall- This one is fairly obvious..... it is the big cliff right along the
water.

Type: 
Crag
Access: 

Unlike the
White Horse Rapids area, it is possible to walk to the base of most of the
routes at the bridge (depending on how high the river is). It is also a bit
different as that the rock there is limestone as apposed to greywhake. The
bridge is located 6.6km from the start, and signifies the end of the gorge.

Lat/Lon: 
-40.337582000000, 175.819101000000
NZMS260: 
T24 495 927
Topo50: 
BM35 395 310
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
1 Desperation V0
0
Safwan's Boulder Ahhhh, poor Safwan...... allergic to ropes. He decided the landing was good enough on this small face to warrant giving it a little love.
Safwan Zainal (9/03/06)
2 The River So-Low 14
0
2bolts
Lowtide Rock This hard little rock is right down by the water (on the left hand side of the group if you are looking down from the bridge) and is only accessiable when the river is down and not worth trying until the ground underneith is dry.
Matt Natti 4/3/07
3 Jarhead 19
0
3bolts
A fun face climb, just left of the arete. As with "The River So Low," the top bolt is shared so try and stay right of the 3rd bolt as you pass it on the way to the top. (3bolts, DCB)
Nathen Tiereny 7/3/07
4 project
0
3bolts
4) project. This route starts with a very bouldery move and a "not so hot" landing so the first bolt was placed so it can be clipped from the cheater stone around the corner, making the first move protected from above. After pulling off the ground, follow the arete up and right to the highest point of the face and then up to the chains. (3 bolts, DCB)
5 Breath of Freshers 20
0
2bolts
The right hand face offers one beautiful, steep line with good holds and cool moves. (2 bolts, DCB)
Matt Natti 10/3/07
6 One Little Tri-cam
0
2bolts
Red Block- This is the first "cliff" you get to when you walk down the track from the road. It is red (duh), slightly overhung and offers 3 good lines to play on. Climbs are listed from left to right.
Matt Natti 2/4/06
7 Little Red Riding Hood 20
0
6bolts
This climb offers cool, thought provoking slopers which lead to an easier, pocketed top out straight up the tall face in the middle of the rock. (3 bolts, DCB)
Matt Natti 2/4/06
8 Slippery When Wet 18
0
4bolts
The right-hand line. Yes, the arete is in! Be careful of the top clip as that it is a bit reachy. (4 bolts, DCB)
Matt Natti 12/4/06
9 The Soggy Scottsman 14
0
3bolts
This is the left of the 2 lines on the non-water side of the cliff. Although the line was originally sent by Matt Natti (after bolting, scrubbing, memorizing EVERY hold and practising the moves with an ascender while on top rope), Andy is given FULL credit for this route after sending the line a mere day or 2 after it was bolted..... on-site, at night (it was really dark), in the rain (it was REALLY wet) and with a slight beer buzz on (why else would you be out climbing in such conditions)!!! If you really want to do this route properly........ never mind, Andy is a nutter! (3 bolts, DCB)
Andy Gifford 21/3/06
9a Out patient 16
0
This is the indirect start to "Impatience," which eliminates the washed out, bouldery, crux beginning moves. Start at the same belay ledge as "The Soggy Scottsman" but traverse right, using the painted bolt hanger as the first clip, until you get to the 3rd bolt of "Impatience." Finish straight up the wall to the "Impatience" belay.
10 Impatience 20
0
5bolts
This was the first line bolted by Matt in the Gorge. Originally this route was a grade 19. After the high waters of the '06-'07 winter, the banks have washed away a bit and now the start is a bit harder and a LOT lower than it was originally. As that the crux is within the first few moves, a new "first bolt" was added so that the start can be worked with less chance of injury. (5 bolts, DCB).
Matt Natti 17/3/06
11 Wasabi 21
0
4bolts
This highly satisfying line starts just before the drop off into the water. The crux, which offers a good burn that is over quick, lies in between the 2nd and 3rd bolt and is good for logging a bit of air time. Yes, the 4th bolt is a bit run out..... but if you can make it through the crux, the rest of the climb should just be no sweat. (4 bolts, DCB)
Fionn Claydon 9/10/07
12 Get your Gri-gri On 23
0
At the top of the cliff there are a few old bolts, which were the protection for the original climbs at Balance. The status quo for the "routes" on this face is a) get someone to lower you down and then top belay you, or b) set up a single line abseil, go down on a gri-gri and then belay yourself back up. Hopefully a way to place a platform at the bottom of this climb can be devised and a line of proper bolts can be placed. Of course, there is always the deep water solo option!