
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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1 | Desperation | V0 |
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Safwan's Boulder
Ahhhh, poor Safwan...... allergic to ropes. He decided the landing was good
enough on this small face to warrant giving it a little love.
Safwan Zainal (9/03/06)
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2 | The River So-Low | 14 |
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Lowtide Rock
This hard little rock is right down by the water (on the left hand side of
the
group if you are looking down from the bridge) and is only accessiable when
the river is down and not worth trying until the ground underneith is dry.
Matt Natti 4/3/07
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3 | Jarhead | 19 |
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A fun face climb, just left of the arete. As with "The River So Low," the top bolt
is shared so try and stay right of the 3rd bolt as you pass it on the way to the
top. (3bolts, DCB)
Nathen Tiereny 7/3/07
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4 | project |
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4) project.
This route starts with a very bouldery move and a "not so hot" landing so the
first bolt was placed so it can be clipped from the cheater stone around the
corner, making the first move protected from above. After pulling off the
ground, follow the arete up and right to the highest point of the face and then
up to the chains. (3 bolts, DCB)
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5 | Breath of Freshers | 20 |
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The right hand face offers one beautiful, steep line with good holds and cool
moves. (2 bolts, DCB)
Matt Natti 10/3/07
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6 | One Little Tri-cam |
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Red Block- This is the first "cliff" you get to when you walk down the track
from
the road. It is red (duh), slightly overhung and offers 3 good lines to play
on.
Climbs are listed from left to right.
Matt Natti 2/4/06
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7 | Little Red Riding Hood | 20 |
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This climb offers cool, thought provoking slopers which lead to an easier,
pocketed top out straight up the tall face in the middle of the rock. (3 bolts,
DCB)
Matt Natti 2/4/06
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8 | Slippery When Wet | 18 |
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The right-hand line. Yes, the arete is in! Be careful of the top clip as that it is a
bit reachy. (4 bolts, DCB)
Matt Natti 12/4/06
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9 | The Soggy Scottsman | 14 |
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This is the left of the 2 lines on the non-water side of the cliff. Although the line
was originally sent by Matt Natti (after bolting, scrubbing, memorizing EVERY
hold and practising the moves with an ascender while on top rope), Andy is
given FULL credit for this route after sending the line a mere day or 2 after it
was bolted..... on-site, at night (it was really dark), in the rain (it was REALLY
wet) and with a slight beer buzz on (why else would you be out climbing in such
conditions)!!! If you really want to do this route properly........ never mind, Andy
is a nutter! (3 bolts, DCB)
Andy Gifford 21/3/06
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9a | Out patient | 16 |
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This is the indirect start to "Impatience," which eliminates the washed out,
bouldery, crux beginning moves. Start at the same belay ledge as "The Soggy
Scottsman" but traverse right, using the painted bolt hanger as the first clip,
until you get to the 3rd bolt of "Impatience." Finish straight up the wall to the
"Impatience" belay.
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10 | Impatience | 20 |
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This was the first line bolted by Matt in the Gorge. Originally this route was a
grade 19. After the high waters of the '06-'07 winter, the banks have washed
away a bit and now the start is a bit harder and a LOT lower than it was
originally. As that the crux is within the first few moves, a new "first bolt" was
added so that the start can be worked with less chance of injury. (5 bolts,
DCB).
Matt Natti 17/3/06
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11 | Wasabi | 21 |
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This highly satisfying line starts just before the drop off into the water. The
crux, which offers a good burn that is over quick, lies in between the 2nd and
3rd bolt and is good for logging a bit of air time. Yes, the 4th bolt is a bit run
out..... but if you can make it through the crux, the rest of the climb should just
be no sweat. (4 bolts, DCB)
Fionn Claydon 9/10/07
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12 | Get your Gri-gri On | 23 |
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At the top of the cliff there are a few old bolts, which were the protection for the
original climbs at Balance. The status quo for the "routes" on this face is a) get
someone to lower you down and then top belay you, or b) set up a single line
abseil, go down on a gri-gri and then belay yourself back up. Hopefully a way
to place a platform at the bottom of this climb can be devised and a line of
proper bolts can be placed. Of course, there is always the deep water solo
option!
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