The Amphitheatre

(21 routes)

The loose block filled gulley can be used with caution, to access the anchors,
above the Amphitheatre, between Sparmid & Wobble.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
9 Gom Jabber 18 25m
0
wire representing trad
The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face. Protection is poor.
Bryce Martin, Simon Vallings 1983
10 The Angry Sea and the Sky 18 20m
0
6bolts
The outside edge of ‘The Arch’, six bolts and DBC belay. If the tide is out you can start at the very base otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the arête and first bolt. The climb carries on straight up the arête, tending right around the third bolt.
Graeme Dingle, 1999.
11 The Angel of Calcutta 17 20m
0
6bolts
Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of the next two bolts then step left to take some support on ‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.
Graeme Dingle and Sarah Moodie, 1997
12 52nd Symphony 22 20m
0
6bolts
The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. A wonderfully technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle, 1997
13 Heads and Tails 16 20m
0
wire representing trad
Begin in the crack to the right (Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below the first bolt (about half height). DBC.
Grant Davidson, John Dawson 1984
14 Hjar 15 20m
0
wire representing trad
Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a chockstone near the top, DBC.
Rick McGregor, Geoff Mead 1975
15 The Whiskey Delta Trilogy 23 20m
0
4bolts
The second edge right of ‘The Arch’ with four bolts. Climb past the first bolt to a ledge on the right then straight up past three more bolts to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle, 1996
16 Hobbledehoy 16 20m
0
wire representing trad
The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.
Robbie McBirney 1974
17 C.J.D 18 20m
1.02
5bolts
Start below an area of very pocketed rock, (the spongy bovine encephalitis), just right of the third edge from ‘The Arch’. Five bolts. A very good climb. Climb just to the right of the first two bolts then up past three more to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle and Kaaren Cordukes, 1996
18 Diabolo 15 20m
0
wire representing trad
The fist crack right of C.J.D., climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom. Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.
Robbie McBirney, Geoff Shekell 1974
19 Queen of Hearts 19 30m
0
6bolts wire representing trad
A rising traverse with six bolts, start as for CJD and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/ cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on J.E.M. and continue up J.E.M.
Graeme Dingle, Sarah Moodie 1997
20 Mihna 21 20m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on J.E.M helps with otherwise lean protection.
Rick McGregor 1974
21 J.E.M 22 20m
1.02
7bolts
The last edge before a loose gully. Seven bolts. A real classic. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second bolts. Move left at the second bolt to clip a third and gain a ledge. Now climb straight up past four more bolts to belay on the pohutukawa.
Graeme Dingle, 1996
22 Sparmid 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start as for J.E.M., and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges. Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.
Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley, John Watson 1972
Pegasus 23 8m
0
3bolts
Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley (right of JEM)
Christian Gamst, Mario Hernandez - 05/01/19
Wobble 17 35m
0
wire representing trad
The awkward crack right of the gulley. Move right at the top to ledges and belay.
Rick McGregor, Cado Avenali 1974
24 Polly, International Terrorist 24 15m
0
2bolts
A buttress with two bolts. Climb the off width, moving left to clip the first bolt. Then straight up to the DBC belay.
Graeme Dingle and Ken Harcombe, 1999
24 Fearless Freddie 20 15m
0
3bolts
A fine second pitch to ‘Polly’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay climb straight up past the first bolt. At the second bolt, traverse left to the edge, then climb straight up past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
Neil Withers and Graeme Dingle, 2000
25 I Hear the Devil Calling Me 20 15m
0
3bolts
Immediately to the right of ‘Polly’ is this interesting route with three bolts. The original bolts have been backed up with stainless ones. Start up the same off-width crack, as for ‘Polly’, to clip the first bolt, then step right. From the third bolt move diagonally left to the double bolt belay.
Mark Bodt and Marcus Thomas, 1991
25 Smilla’s Feeling 20 15m
0
3bolts
A second pitch to ‘I Hear the Devil’ with three bolts. From the double bolt belay, move right and up easy ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another bolt. Once on the crest climb the easy arête past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
Graeme Dingle, 2000
26 Futtick 16 35m
0
wire representing trad
The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.
Gordon Mather, John Watson 1972