The loose block filled gulley can be used with caution, to access the anchors,
above the Amphitheatre, between Sparmid & Wobble.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
West

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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9 | Gom Jabber | 18 | 25m |
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The seaward rib of the big arch, start up a wide crack to the left of the rib. Move
right onto the ledge at half height to a thin crack on the face. Protection is poor.
Bryce Martin, Simon Vallings 1983
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10 | The Angry Sea and the Sky | 18 | 20m |
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The outside edge of ‘The Arch’, six bolts and DBC belay. If the tide is out you
can start at the very base otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse
to the arête and first bolt. The climb carries on straight up the arête, tending
right around the third bolt.
Graeme Dingle, 1999.
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11 | The Angel of Calcutta | 17 | 20m |
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Just left of the first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six
bolts. Clip the bolt at the bottom of the edge and immediately
move left to easier climbing. Climb just to the left of
the next two bolts then step left to take some support on
‘The Arch’. The fifth bolt is to the left on ‘The Arch’. Climb
up the left wall to the wide crack, the sixth bolt and a little
further on and further to a double bolt belay to the right.
Graeme Dingle and Sarah Moodie, 1997
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12 | 52nd Symphony | 22 | 20m |
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The first edge to the right of ‘The Arch’, six bolts. A wonderfully
technical climb. Climb the edge to just above the
fourth bolt where you step right to the fifth bolt and
finish up past a sixth to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle, 1997
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13 | Heads and Tails | 16 | 20m |
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Begin in the crack to the right (Hjar) and move left out onto the face just below
the first bolt (about half height). DBC.
Grant Davidson, John Dawson 1984
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14 | Hjar | 15 | 20m |
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Immediately to the right of the Arch is a wide crack that narrows to a
chockstone near the top, DBC.
Rick McGregor, Geoff Mead 1975
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15 | The Whiskey Delta Trilogy | 23 | 20m |
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The second edge right of ‘The Arch’ with four bolts.
Climb past the first bolt to a ledge on the right then
straight up past three more bolts to a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle, 1996
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16 | Hobbledehoy | 16 | 20m |
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The second crack from the Arch, with a chockstone near the top. Awkward
start and increasingly difficult over the chockstone.
Robbie McBirney 1974
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17 | C.J.D | 18 | 20m |
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Start below an area of very pocketed rock, (the spongy
bovine encephalitis), just right of the third edge from
‘The Arch’. Five bolts. A very good climb. Climb just to
the right of the first two bolts then up past three more to
a double bolt belay.
Graeme Dingle and Kaaren Cordukes, 1996
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18 | Diabolo | 15 | 20m |
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The fist crack right of C.J.D., climb the crack direct - awkward at the bottom.
Alternatively start as for Mihna and traverse in to the crack.
Robbie McBirney, Geoff Shekell 1974
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19 | Queen of Hearts | 19 | 30m |
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A rising traverse with six bolts, start as for CJD and climb to the second bolt
before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/ cam can be placed.
Step right to the fourth bolt on J.E.M. and continue up J.E.M.
Graeme Dingle, Sarah Moodie 1997
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20 | Mihna | 21 | 20m |
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The thin crack, gained by climbing the steep wall on big pockets. From ledges
ascend the crack straight up. The third bolt on J.E.M helps with otherwise lean
protection.
Rick McGregor 1974
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21 | J.E.M | 22 | 20m |
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The last edge before a loose gully. Seven bolts. A real
classic. Begin up a wide crack and clip the first and second
bolts. Move left at the second bolt to clip a third and
gain a ledge. Now climb straight up past four more bolts
to belay on the pohutukawa.
Graeme Dingle, 1996
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22 | Sparmid | 14 | 20m |
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Start as for J.E.M., and then climb the crack to the large rubbly ledges.
Scramble to the first groove on the left wall and up to tree belay.
Brian Alexander, Bryan Dudley, John Watson 1972
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Pegasus | 23 | 8m |
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Up the right arete of the large block at the base of the gulley (right of JEM)
Christian Gamst, Mario Hernandez - 05/01/19
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Wobble | 17 | 35m |
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The awkward crack right of the gulley. Move right at the top to ledges and
belay.
Rick McGregor, Cado Avenali 1974
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Well of Souls | 23 | 15m |
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Climbs the crack then straight up through the steep buldge. Either traverse over to Polly, International Terrorist's anchor just down and right after the ledge or continue up Fearless Freddie (20) above.
Marco Lefebvre, Jan 2019
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24 | Polly, International Terrorist | 24 | 15m |
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A buttress with two bolts. Climb
the off width, moving left to clip
the first bolt. Then straight up to
the DBC belay.
Graeme Dingle and Ken Harcombe, 1999
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24 | Fearless Freddie | 20 | 15m |
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A fine second pitch to ‘Polly’ with three bolts. From the
double bolt belay climb straight up past the first bolt. At the
second bolt, traverse left to the edge, then climb straight
up past another bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
Neil Withers and Graeme Dingle, 2000
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25 | I Hear the Devil Calling Me | 20 | 15m |
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Immediately to the right of ‘Polly’ is this interesting route
with three bolts. The original bolts have been backed up
with stainless ones. Start up the same off-width crack, as
for ‘Polly’, to clip the first bolt, then step right. From the
third bolt move diagonally left to the double bolt belay.
Mark Bodt and Marcus Thomas, 1991
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25 | Smilla’s Feeling | 20 | 15m |
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A second pitch to ‘I Hear the Devil’ with three bolts.
From the double bolt belay, move right and up easy
ground past a bolt to a short but tricky wall with another
bolt. Once on the crest climb the easy arête past another
bolt to the double bolt belay at the top.
Graeme Dingle, 2000
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26 | Futtick | 16 | 35m |
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The poorly protected off width corner is climbed past a chockstone. Descend
down the back or continue up to the left on poor rock.
Gordon Mather, John Watson 1972
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Fight or Slight | 21 | 15m |
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Technical climbing up the face leads into the crux just below the bulge. Figure out the sequence and mantle up to a rest before tackling the final grade A friction slab.
Located on the left face up the gulley behind Pegasus.
Christian Gamst, 02/02/19
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UUID:
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