Long Side, Central Section (CLOSED)

(45 routes)

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.

Central Section. From Sneakeasy to Picture This.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Access: 

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Sy Sneakeasy 23
0
3bolts
A popular route and one of the few at the Quarry that can pass for a sport climb. Start up the wall and move right to a small ledge, then move back left and continue up the face.
Bryce Martin, June 1987
Zd Zillmerised 29
0
The sumptuously leaning, sloping arête.
Roland Foster (solo), April 1992
BS Bodysnatcher 23
2.01
wire representing trad
Sustained and classic bridging in the prominent peapod groove. To get there, commit to the small overhang and move out left onto the rib. Continue up the groove above over a bulge (crux), protected by small but good wires.]
Robbie McBirney, 1974
BB Boys on Bikes 26
0
wire representing trad
‘Thinking climbing, with not a single mean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer. Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carrigan later eyed up the line and removed several blocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain the corner.
Graeme Aimer, 1983
PI Pig Igneous 27
1.02
3bolts wire representing trad
The definitive version of the previous route (Boys on Bikes): a hard direct start gains the groove.
Ton Snelder, 1989
St Sweat 27
0
1bolts wire representing trad
At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head up right on to the impressive buttress.
Dave Vass, 1992
Ht Heat 26
3
2bolts wire representing trad
must do. Climb the thin overhanging crack or the buttress and insinuate yourself into the upper groove. Strenuous.
Charlie Creese, December 1981
LW Legs This Wide 25
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
These bulging shallow grooves demand flexibility. A little run out up high, on small but good wires.
Graeme Aimer, December 1983
SD Sample The Dog 26
1.02
4bolts
The thin, full-length V-groove.
Luke Newnham, 1990
Wd Wired 25
1.02
wire representing trad
Reach broken ledges by climbing the wall on the left. Move back left and finish up the groove.
Rick McGregor, June 1981
BS Black Stump 23
0
wire representing trad
Gain the broken ledges from the groove on right. Continue up the thin crack above, exiting right.
Robbie McBirney, 1977
GO The Grip Goes On 23
0
1bolts wire representing trad
From the groove of Black Stump, climb straight up the shallow groove above, past a bolt to the ledges above.
Graeme Aimer, December 1983
GW The Ghost Who Walks 26
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Climb the narrow groove to the ledge of Gothic Groove. Step back left where delicate moves lead to better holds.
Tony Ward-Holmes, July 1986
GG Gothic Groove 22
1.02
wire representing trad
Climb the wall to the ledge and groove. Up this to scurry left across the horizontal break (crux) to gain ledges.
Robbie McBirney, October 1975
RS Roo Squeaks 25
0
wire representing trad
This direct finish tests your ability to get into weird positions and stay on.
Alex Palman, April 1987
FK Fuck-Knuckle 22
0
wire representing trad
Climb to the shattered ledge and continue up the crack through the bulge before moving right into Silver Airman.
Rick McGregor, March 1979
SA Silver Airman 16
3
wire representing trad
The scene of many an Aucklander’s first outing. Climb the ramp (or the groove, harder) to the ledge, and into the groove. Exit left, but tend right again to finish.
Robbie McBirney, June 1973
RO Rebuilding Oscar 25
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start up Silver Airman, then tackle the buttress above before finishing leftwards up the lichen. An ugly piece of work.
Ton Snelder, October 1986
SG Smash and Grab 25
0
1bolts wire representing trad
The overhanging groove leads up to a wild move rightwards and broken ground.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
WK Wendy Kroy 26
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Unpleasant. Start up Sheelux but head through the overhang above.
Ton Snelder, March 1995
Sx Sheerlux 24
2.01
wire representing trad
Truly classic. The truncated groove. At the roof move right onto the wall, finishing up the leaning corner. Harder if you’re short.
Rick McGregor, February 1979
Pd Porkland 24
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Porkland 24 1 The wide groove, finishing direct up the wall. Adequate protection, but tricky to arrange.
Mike Law, April 1983
NN Naughty But Nice 23
0
1bolts wire representing trad
A wandering route with varied climbing which avoids the crux of both grooves. Climb Porkland to the jugs, then move right to finish up the top crack of Down to Earth. Double ropes may be useful.
Rick McGregor, June 1980
DE Down To Earth 28
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Can be a struggle. Ward-Holmes hit the ground on rope-stretch 7 times. Clip the bolt with a single screwgate and anchor your belayer in Maisola Party using wires near ground level.
Tony Ward-Holmes, February 1992
MP Maisola Party 25
0
wire representing trad
The thin crack into a small peapod to the top of the block. Harder if you avoid the holds on Momrath.
Charlie Creese, November 1981
Mh Momrath 19
0
wire representing trad
Gain the groove from either side of the grey wall. Exit left onto the block, finishing up left-leaning ramp.
Rick McGregor, June 1974
Mrh Momrath RH Finish 21
1.02
wire representing trad
More worthwhile than the original. Heading right gives fun moves.
LM Load It For Me 24
1.02
wire representing trad
The thin crack: fine, continous, relatively low-angled and well-protected climbing.
Rick McGregor, August 1980
AB Another Broken Hero 26
0
4bolts
The shallow groove is difficult and sustained.
Rick McGregor, October 1985
UM Ugly Murmurs 25
0
wire representing trad
Can be quite ugly for the inexpert operator. The short, blackened, overhanging groove and crack.
Rick McGregor, June 1980
Ku Kaikansu 27
0
The arête direct, without moving right at the top or using the Ugly Murmurs crack.
Michael Welson
Sd Samarcand 19
1.02
wire representing trad
The deep, fire-blackened corner is much better than it looks.
Rick McGregor, May 1975
ZL Zorn’s Lemma 29
1.02
3bolts
The groove with just three bolts. Go for it.
Roland Foster, 1991
SH Shoes This High 24
0
wire representing trad
Climb the arête to the left-hand end of the large ledge, then the buttress above, moving left at the top. A bit contrived, but provides some interesting moves high up. Double ropes will help.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
RL Revenge of the Lawn 21
0
wire representing trad
Climb either of the twin grooves (the right-hand is easier) to the ledge. Pull over into the shallow groove and a fun balance crux.
Rick McGregor, March 1979
Rlh Revenge LH Finish 22
0
wire representing trad
Exit to the top of Shoes This High.
Transvaal 18
0
wire representing trad
A wandering route, the longest at the Quarry. Commence up either of the Revenge grooves to the ledge, then traverse right across the wall to the ledge below the crux on Kaloo Kalay. Either climb this (19), the groove of Diddely Dick, or the groove above Studio 54 to reach the next ledge system. Trend up and right to finish across the slab above Thimblerigger.
Robert Staveley Parker, 1978
Be Banshee 22
1.02
wire representing trad
The thin crack just gets thinner and thinner — it helps to have thin fingers. A fine climb.
Robbie McBirney, May 1974
ST Stem the Evil Tide 22
0
wire representing trad
Delicate moves up the wall following the thin crack, until forced left at the top.
Rick McGregor, December 1980
SN Suspended Animation 25
0
4bolts wire representing trad
Absolutely silly. Climb the arête and move left into the groove at the top.
Alex Palman, November 1988
CA Charlie’s Arete 25
0
The arête, up onto the ledge.
Charlie Creese
KK Kaloo Kalay 19
0
wire representing trad
Start in the short but tricky groove. Then climb the crack (crux) to the large ledge on the right. Finish up the prominent crack, through the bulge onto a slab.
Rick McGregor, August 1973
Diddely Dick Takes a Detour 18
0
wire representing trad
Shares the start of Kaloo Kalay, but continues up the groove just to the right to finish up left-leaning ramps.
Grant Davidson, 1982
Plumley Walker Spur 28
0
The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket. A V6 variant (Huka Falls) starts with the big left-hand side-pull.
Tony Ward-Holmes, September 1991
Picture This 24
0
wire representing trad
The poorly-protected corner is usually bouldered to broken ledges (crux), exiting down Kaloo Kalay. Can also be led finishing up the corner above to another ledge and twin pillars.
Rick McGregor, August 1980
UUID: 
47b2c588-f91d-4405-8faa-b1870823eff5

Comments

It's possible to scramble between the top of "Paper Tiger," past the "Jogger's Special" wall, to the climbs centered around "Bone China."