CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.
Central Section. From Sneakeasy to Picture This.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North
Access:
CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Sy | Sneakeasy | 23 |
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A popular route and one of the few at the Quarry that can pass for a sport climb. Start up the wall and move right to a small ledge, then move back left and continue up the face.
Bryce Martin, June 1987
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Zd | Zillmerised | 29 |
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The sumptuously leaning, sloping arête.
Roland Foster (solo), April 1992
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BS | Bodysnatcher | 23 |
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Sustained and classic bridging in the prominent peapod groove. To get there, commit to the small overhang and move out left onto the rib. Continue up the groove above over a bulge (crux), protected by small but good wires.]
Robbie McBirney, 1974
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BB | Boys on Bikes | 26 |
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‘Thinking climbing, with not a single mean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer. Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carrigan later eyed up the line and removed several blocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain the corner.
Graeme Aimer, 1983
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PI | Pig Igneous | 27 |
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The definitive version of the previous route (Boys on Bikes): a hard direct start gains the groove.
Ton Snelder, 1989
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St | Sweat | 27 |
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At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head up right on to the impressive buttress.
Dave Vass, 1992
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Ht | Heat | 26 |
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must do. Climb the thin overhanging crack or the buttress and insinuate yourself into the upper groove. Strenuous.
Charlie Creese, December 1981
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LW | Legs This Wide | 25 |
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These bulging shallow grooves demand flexibility. A little run out up high, on small but good wires.
Graeme Aimer, December 1983
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SD | Sample The Dog | 26 |
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The thin, full-length V-groove.
Luke Newnham, 1990
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Wd | Wired | 25 |
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Reach broken ledges by climbing the wall on the left. Move back left and finish up the groove.
Rick McGregor, June 1981
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BS | Black Stump | 23 |
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Gain the broken ledges from the groove on right. Continue up the thin crack above, exiting right.
Robbie McBirney, 1977
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GO | The Grip Goes On | 23 |
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From the groove of Black Stump, climb straight up the shallow groove above, past a bolt to the ledges above.
Graeme Aimer, December 1983
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GW | The Ghost Who Walks | 26 |
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Climb the narrow groove to the ledge of Gothic Groove. Step back left where delicate moves lead to better holds.
Tony Ward-Holmes, July 1986
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GG | Gothic Groove | 22 |
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Climb the wall to the ledge and groove. Up this to scurry left across the horizontal break (crux) to gain ledges.
Robbie McBirney, October 1975
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RS | Roo Squeaks | 25 |
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This direct finish tests your ability to get into weird positions and stay on.
Alex Palman, April 1987
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FK | Fuck-Knuckle | 22 |
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Climb to the shattered ledge and continue up the crack through the bulge before moving right into Silver Airman.
Rick McGregor, March 1979
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SA | Silver Airman | 16 |
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The scene of many an Aucklander’s first outing. Climb the ramp (or the groove, harder) to the ledge, and into the groove. Exit left, but tend right again to finish.
Robbie McBirney, June 1973
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RO | Rebuilding Oscar | 25 |
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Start up Silver Airman, then tackle the buttress above before finishing leftwards up the lichen. An ugly piece of work.
Ton Snelder, October 1986
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SG | Smash and Grab | 25 |
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The overhanging groove leads up to a wild move rightwards and broken ground.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
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WK | Wendy Kroy | 26 |
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Unpleasant. Start up Sheelux but head through the overhang above.
Ton Snelder, March 1995
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Sx | Sheerlux | 24 |
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Truly classic. The truncated groove. At the roof move right onto the wall, finishing up the leaning corner. Harder if you’re short.
Rick McGregor, February 1979
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Pd | Porkland | 24 |
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Porkland 24 1 The wide groove, finishing direct up the wall. Adequate protection, but tricky to arrange.
Mike Law, April 1983
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NN | Naughty But Nice | 23 |
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A wandering route with varied climbing which avoids the crux of both grooves. Climb Porkland to the jugs, then move right to finish up the top crack of Down to Earth. Double ropes may be useful.
Rick McGregor, June 1980
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DE | Down To Earth | 28 |
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Can be a struggle. Ward-Holmes hit the ground on rope-stretch 7 times. Clip the bolt with a single screwgate and anchor your belayer in Maisola Party using wires near ground level.
Tony Ward-Holmes, February 1992
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MP | Maisola Party | 25 |
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The thin crack into a small peapod to the top of the block. Harder if you avoid the holds on Momrath.
Charlie Creese, November 1981
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Mh | Momrath | 19 |
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Gain the groove from either side of the grey wall. Exit left onto the block, finishing up left-leaning ramp.
Rick McGregor, June 1974
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Mrh | Momrath RH Finish | 21 |
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More worthwhile than the original. Heading right gives fun moves.
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LM | Load It For Me | 24 |
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The thin crack: fine, continous, relatively low-angled and well-protected climbing.
Rick McGregor, August 1980
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AB | Another Broken Hero | 26 |
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The shallow groove is difficult and sustained.
Rick McGregor, October 1985
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UM | Ugly Murmurs | 25 |
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Can be quite ugly for the inexpert operator. The short, blackened, overhanging groove and crack.
Rick McGregor, June 1980
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Ku | Kaikansu | 27 |
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The arête direct, without moving right at the top or using the Ugly Murmurs crack.
Michael Welson
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Sd | Samarcand | 19 |
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The deep, fire-blackened corner is much better than it looks.
Rick McGregor, May 1975
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ZL | Zorn’s Lemma | 29 |
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The groove with just three bolts. Go for it.
Roland Foster, 1991
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SH | Shoes This High | 24 |
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Climb the arête to the left-hand end of the large ledge, then the buttress above, moving left at the top. A bit contrived, but provides some interesting moves high up. Double ropes will help.
Rick McGregor, February 1983
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RL | Revenge of the Lawn | 21 |
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Climb either of the twin grooves (the right-hand is easier) to the ledge. Pull over into the shallow groove and a fun balance crux.
Rick McGregor, March 1979
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Rlh | Revenge LH Finish | 22 |
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Exit to the top of Shoes This High.
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Transvaal | 18 |
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A wandering route, the longest at the Quarry. Commence up either of the Revenge grooves to the ledge, then traverse right across the wall to the ledge below the crux on Kaloo Kalay. Either climb this (19), the groove of Diddely Dick, or the groove above Studio 54 to reach the next ledge system. Trend up and right to finish across the slab above Thimblerigger.
Robert Staveley Parker, 1978
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Be | Banshee | 22 |
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The thin crack just gets thinner and thinner — it helps to have thin fingers. A fine climb.
Robbie McBirney, May 1974
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ST | Stem the Evil Tide | 22 |
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Delicate moves up the wall following the thin crack, until forced left at the top.
Rick McGregor, December 1980
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SN | Suspended Animation | 25 |
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Absolutely silly. Climb the arête and move left into the groove at the top.
Alex Palman, November 1988
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CA | Charlie’s Arete | 25 |
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The arête, up onto the ledge.
Charlie Creese
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KK | Kaloo Kalay | 19 |
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Start in the short but tricky groove. Then climb the crack (crux) to the large ledge on the right. Finish up the prominent crack, through the bulge onto a slab.
Rick McGregor, August 1973
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Diddely Dick Takes a Detour | 18 |
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Shares the start of Kaloo Kalay, but continues up the groove just to the right to finish up left-leaning ramps.
Grant Davidson, 1982
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Plumley Walker Spur | 28 |
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The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket. A V6 variant (Huka Falls) starts with the big left-hand side-pull.
Tony Ward-Holmes, September 1991
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Picture This | 24 |
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The poorly-protected corner is usually bouldered to broken ledges (crux), exiting down Kaloo Kalay. Can also be led finishing up the corner above to another ledge and twin pillars.
Rick McGregor, August 1980
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UUID:
47b2c588-f91d-4405-8faa-b1870823eff5
Comments
It's possible to scramble
It's possible to scramble between the top of "Paper Tiger," past the "Jogger's Special" wall, to the climbs centered around "Bone China."