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Long Side, Central Section (CLOSED)

Type

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE - see access notes.
Central Section. From Sneakeasy to Picture This.
Most routes are about 15 to 20 metres in height. The Long Side comes into its own for climb-ers competent at around grade 18 and above.

Image
Aspect
North
Access

CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE. NZAC Auckland section is working with the school to reach a solution. Please DO NOT CLIMB OR BOULDER at the long side.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Sy SySneakeasy, 23 23 3
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 3

A popular route and one of the few at the Quarry that can pass for a sport climb. Start up the wall and move right to a small ledge, then move back left and continue up the face.


Zd ZdZillmerised, 29 29 12m
0

  • P1
  • 29
  • 12m
  • Trad

The sumptuously slanting, devious arête (no gear). Finish up Sneakeasy if you want.


BS BSBodysnatcher, 23 23
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • Trad

Sustained and classic bridging in the prominent peapod groove. To get there, commit to the small overhang and move out left onto the rib. Continue up the groove above over a bulge (crux), protected by small but good wires.]


BB BBBoys on Bikes, 26 26
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • Trad

‘Thinking climbing, with not a single mean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer. Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carrigan later eyed up the line and removed several blocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain the corner.


PI PIPig Igneous, 27 27 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 27
  • 3
  • Trad

The definitive version of the previous route (Boys on Bikes): a hard direct start gains the groove.


St StSweat, 27 27 1
0

  • P1
  • 27
  • 1
  • Trad

At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head up right on to the impressive buttress.


Ht HtHeat, 26 26 2
3

  • P1
  • 26
  • 2
  • Trad

must do. Climb the thin overhanging crack or the buttress and insinuate yourself into the upper groove. Strenuous.


LW LWLegs This Wide, 25 25 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • 2
  • Trad

These bulging shallow grooves demand flexibility. A little run out up high, on small but good wires.


SD SDSample The Dog, 26 26 4
1.02

  • P1
  • 26
  • 4

The thin, full-length V-groove.


Wd WdWired, 25 25
1.02

  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

Reach broken ledges by climbing the wall on the left. Move back left and finish up the groove.


BS BSBlack Stump, 23 23
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • Trad

Gain the broken ledges from the groove on right. Continue up the thin crack above, exiting right.


GO GOThe Grip Goes On, 23 23 1
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 1
  • Trad

From the groove of Black Stump, climb straight up the shallow groove above, past a bolt to the ledges above.


GW GWThe Ghost Who Walks, 26 26 1
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 1
  • Trad

Climb the narrow groove to the ledge of Gothic Groove. Step back left where delicate moves lead to better holds.


GG GGGothic Groove, 22 22
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Climb the wall to the ledge and groove. Up this to scurry left across the horizontal break (crux) to gain ledges.


RS RSRoo Squeaks, 25 25
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

This direct finish tests your ability to get into weird positions and stay on.


FK FKFuck-Knuckle, 22 22
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Climb to the shattered ledge and continue up the crack through the bulge before moving right into Silver Airman.


SA SASilver Airman, 16 16
3

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

The scene of many an Aucklander’s first outing. Climb the ramp (or the groove, harder) to the ledge, and into the groove. Exit left, but tend right again to finish.


RO RORebuilding Oscar, 25 25 2
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 2
  • Trad

Start up Silver Airman, then tackle the buttress above before finishing leftwards up the lichen. An ugly piece of work.


SG SGSmash and Grab, 25 25 1
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 1
  • Trad

The overhanging groove leads up to a wild move rightwards and broken ground.


WK WKWendy Kroy, 26 26 1
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 1
  • Trad

Unpleasant. Start up Sheelux but head through the overhang above.


Sx SxSheerlux, 24 24
2.01

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

Truly classic. The truncated groove. At the roof move right onto the wall, finishing up the leaning corner. Harder if you’re short.


Pd PdPorkland, 24 24 1
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • 1
  • Trad

Porkland 24 1 The wide groove, finishing direct up the wall. Adequate protection, but tricky to arrange.


NN NNNaughty But Nice, 23 23 1
0

  • P1
  • 23
  • 1
  • Trad

A wandering route with varied climbing which avoids the crux of both grooves. Climb Porkland to the jugs, then move right to finish up the top crack of Down to Earth. Double ropes may be useful.


DE DEDown To Earth, 28 28 1
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 1
  • Trad

Can be a struggle. Ward-Holmes hit the ground on rope-stretch 7 times. Clip the bolt with a single screwgate and anchor your belayer in Maisola Party using wires near ground level.


MP MPMaisola Party, 25 25
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

The thin crack into a small peapod to the top of the block. Harder if you avoid the holds on Momrath.


Mh MhMomrath, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Gain the groove from either side of the grey wall. Exit left onto the block, finishing up left-leaning ramp.


Mrh MrhMomrath RH Finish, 21 21
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

More worthwhile than the original. Heading right gives fun moves.


LM LMLoad It For Me, 24 24
1.02

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

The thin crack: fine, continous, relatively low-angled and well-protected climbing.


AB ABAnother Broken Hero, 26 26 4
0

  • P1
  • 26
  • 4

The shallow groove is difficult and sustained.


UM UMUgly Murmurs, 25 25
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • Trad

Can be quite ugly for the inexpert operator. The short, blackened, overhanging groove and crack.


Ku KuKaikansu, 27 27 0m
0

  • P1
  • 27
  • Trad

The arête direct, without moving right at the top or using the Ugly Murmurs crack.


Sd SdSamarcand, 19 19
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

The deep, fire-blackened corner is much better than it looks.


ZL ZLZorn’s Lemma, 29 29 3
1.02

  • P1
  • 29
  • 3

The groove with just three bolts. Go for it.


SH SHShoes This High, 24 24
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

Climb the arête to the left-hand end of the large ledge, then the buttress above, moving left at the top. A bit contrived, but provides some interesting moves high up. Double ropes will help.


RL RLRevenge of the Lawn, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

Climb either of the twin grooves (the right-hand is easier) to the ledge. Pull over into the shallow groove and a fun balance crux.


Rlh RlhRevenge LH Finish, 22 22
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Exit to the top of Shoes This High.


 Transvaal, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

A wandering route, the longest at the Quarry. Commence up either of the Revenge grooves to the ledge, then traverse right across the wall to the ledge below the crux on Kaloo Kalay. Either climb this (19), the groove of Diddely Dick, or the groove above Studio 54 to reach the next ledge system. Trend up and right to finish across the slab above Thimblerigger.


Be BeBanshee, 22 22
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

The thin crack just gets thinner and thinner — it helps to have thin fingers. A fine climb.


ST STStem the Evil Tide, 22 22
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Delicate moves up the wall following the thin crack, until forced left at the top.


SN SNSuspended Animation, 25 25 4
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 4
  • Trad

Absolutely silly. Climb the arête and move left into the groove at the top.


CA CACharlie’s Arete, 25 25 6m
0

  • P1
  • 25
  • 6m
  • Trad

The arête, up onto the ledge. No gear.


KK KKKaloo Kalay, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Start in the short but tricky groove. Then climb the crack (crux) to the large ledge on the right. Finish up the prominent crack, through the bulge onto a slab.


 Diddely Dick Takes a Detour, 18 18
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

Shares the start of Kaloo Kalay, but continues up the groove just to the right to finish up left-leaning ramps.


 Plumley Walker Spur, 28 28 6m
0

  • P1
  • 28
  • 6m
  • Trad

The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket. A V6 variant (Huka Falls) starts with the big left-hand side-pull. No gear.


 Picture This, 24 24
0

  • P1
  • 24
  • Trad

The poorly-protected corner is usually bouldered to broken ledges (crux), exiting down Kaloo Kalay. Can also be led finishing up the corner above to another ledge and twin pillars.


Comments
jezer

It's possible to scramble between the top of "Paper Tiger," past the "Jogger's Special" wall, to the climbs centered around "Bone China."

Sun, 10/03/2013 - 11:03 Permalink
UUID
 
47b2c588-f91d-4405-8faa-b1870823eff5