Long Side, Central Section (CLOSED)

A popular route and one of the few at the Quarry that can pass for a sport climb. Start up the wall and move right to a small ledge, then move back left and continue up the face.

The sumptuously slanting, devious arête (no gear). Finish up Sneakeasy if you want.

Sustained and classic bridging in the prominent peapod groove. To get there, commit to the small overhang and move out left onto the rib. Continue up the groove above over a bulge (crux), protected by small but good wires.]

‘Thinking climbing, with not a single mean jam or hold to be found,’ said Aimer. Thinking it was unclimbed, Kim Carrigan later eyed up the line and removed several blocks. Start up Bodysnatcher to gain the corner.

The definitive version of the previous route (Boys on Bikes): a hard direct start gains the groove.

At the first bolt on Pig Igneous, head up right on to the impressive buttress.

must do. Climb the thin overhanging crack or the buttress and insinuate yourself into the upper groove. Strenuous.

These bulging shallow grooves demand flexibility. A little run out up high, on small but good wires.

The thin, full-length V-groove.

Reach broken ledges by climbing the wall on the left. Move back left and finish up the groove.

Gain the broken ledges from the groove on right. Continue up the thin crack above, exiting right.

From the groove of Black Stump, climb straight up the shallow groove above, past a bolt to the ledges above.

Climb the narrow groove to the ledge of Gothic Groove. Step back left where delicate moves lead to better holds.

Climb the wall to the ledge and groove. Up this to scurry left across the horizontal break (crux) to gain ledges.

This direct finish tests your ability to get into weird positions and stay on.

Climb to the shattered ledge and continue up the crack through the bulge before moving right into Silver Airman.

The scene of many an Aucklander’s first outing. Climb the ramp (or the groove, harder) to the ledge, and into the groove. Exit left, but tend right again to finish.

Start up Silver Airman, then tackle the buttress above before finishing leftwards up the lichen. An ugly piece of work.

The overhanging groove leads up to a wild move rightwards and broken ground.

Unpleasant. Start up Sheelux but head through the overhang above.

Truly classic. The truncated groove. At the roof move right onto the wall, finishing up the leaning corner. Harder if you’re short.

Porkland 24 1 The wide groove, finishing direct up the wall. Adequate protection, but tricky to arrange.

A wandering route with varied climbing which avoids the crux of both grooves. Climb Porkland to the jugs, then move right to finish up the top crack of Down to Earth. Double ropes may be useful.

Can be a struggle. Ward-Holmes hit the ground on rope-stretch 7 times. Clip the bolt with a single screwgate and anchor your belayer in Maisola Party using wires near ground level.

The thin crack into a small peapod to the top of the block. Harder if you avoid the holds on Momrath.

Gain the groove from either side of the grey wall. Exit left onto the block, finishing up left-leaning ramp.

More worthwhile than the original. Heading right gives fun moves.

The thin crack: fine, continous, relatively low-angled and well-protected climbing.

The shallow groove is difficult and sustained.

Can be quite ugly for the inexpert operator. The short, blackened, overhanging groove and crack.

The arête direct, without moving right at the top or using the Ugly Murmurs crack.

The deep, fire-blackened corner is much better than it looks.

The groove with just three bolts. Go for it.

Climb the arête to the left-hand end of the large ledge, then the buttress above, moving left at the top. A bit contrived, but provides some interesting moves high up. Double ropes will help.

Climb either of the twin grooves (the right-hand is easier) to the ledge. Pull over into the shallow groove and a fun balance crux.

Exit to the top of Shoes This High.

A wandering route, the longest at the Quarry. Commence up either of the Revenge grooves to the ledge, then traverse right across the wall to the ledge below the crux on Kaloo Kalay. Either climb this (19), the groove of Diddely Dick, or the groove above Studio 54 to reach the next ledge system. Trend up and right to finish across the slab above Thimblerigger.

The thin crack just gets thinner and thinner — it helps to have thin fingers. A fine climb.

Delicate moves up the wall following the thin crack, until forced left at the top.

Absolutely silly. Climb the arête and move left into the groove at the top.

The arête, up onto the ledge. No gear.

Start in the short but tricky groove. Then climb the crack (crux) to the large ledge on the right. Finish up the prominent crack, through the bulge onto a slab.

Shares the start of Kaloo Kalay, but continues up the groove just to the right to finish up left-leaning ramps.

The arête. Painful holds, nasty plunge. It’s just not cricket. A V6 variant (Huka Falls) starts with the big left-hand side-pull. No gear.

The poorly-protected corner is usually bouldered to broken ledges (crux), exiting down Kaloo Kalay. Can also be led finishing up the corner above to another ledge and twin pillars.