Middle Buttress

Short route at the far left, on grey rock. Climb a crack splitting the block; then step right and up the arête over horizontal cracks. Short but grim descent to the left through the scrub.

Follow the slightly leftward trending groove for 10 metres, then move right to a ledge.

Goes up the smooth prow. Start on the left and boulder up to the ledge, placing microwires left and below. Gain the ledge, with good wires in the crack. Climb on the left and place more micros above. Continue up past horizontal breaks with cams and anchor to a large block at the top. This climb is well-protected apart from the start, but expertise with microwires is required.

Start at a small platform three metres left of Reprobate. Pull up steeply on positive holds (crux) with a small cam to the left to gain the corner. Then to the ledge and past a small roof to finish up a short corner and wall. Step right to the anchor for Reprobate.

The most prominent line on the crag. From the same platform crash over the scrub to the easy-angled left-facing corner beside a buttress covered in red lichen. Easy climbing to a ledge, where it steepens with a thin crack for protection. Ring anchors at the top of the corner.

From the foot of Reprobate move right a metre, then climb the groove and wall above. At the ledge climb the groove just left of the prow to a horizontal crack, and then up the crack (crux) and pull around on to the prow to finish at the anchor.

Slightly contrived, being squeezed into the central part of the buttress. Use the Nostalgia crack for the first piece of gear and then up to the overhang and pull through slightly left to the slab. Climb the prow directly (16, Justin Hall 2013) to a nice stance and two-bolt anchor.

Up the right side of the buttress to a semi-detached flake (protection), and straight on up past the right side of the summit nose directly to the anchors.

7 metres to the right is a wide groove climbed on the righthand side.

Climbs the bulge and easy-angled wall 2 metres to the right of RB Route.

Four metres right. Climb the easy prow with protection from a small totara to the left, then up past a ledge with good cracks leading to the top.

Start on the second rib to the right and scramble to a vegetated ledge. Bridge up with gear on the left wall in a horizontal crack, but step right onto a block. Muscle up a steep crack (high step – crux) to gain the main ledge, and finish up corners and cracks to the summit. Walk down to the Renegade/Recidivist anchor.

Start as for 3 Two 1 with the small cam placement, but move left and climb the corner-crack. Step right to the ledge and over a block before tacking the headwall as per 3 Two 1.

At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, climb this sticking to the arête to tackle an overhang on good holds. A small friend protects the start.

At the right end of the cliff is a rounded arête or small buttress, on its right hand side a crack leads easily up to a ledge under a short steep wall with a bolt and good holds.