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Gill's Bivvy Slabs

Type
Sector
Part of
Moraine Creek Slabs

These climbs lie in an avalanche runout zone, and may have damaged bolts.

Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Cat Scratch Slab, 22 22 0m
2.01
  • P1
  • 22

Three pitches. 18, 17, 22.
The first bolt is missing, making the route unclimbable at present.

Rebolted 2026. New 3rd pitch trending left from belay (17), making the route completely climbable at present, superb slab climbing.

Note: original 3rd pitch trends right, is not rebolted (yet). Warning: 4th pitch finishes at single ring - route incomplete project past 3rd pitch. Follow hangers at your own (informed) risk.
2 2Jackhammer, 21 21
0
  • P1
  • 21

Two pitches. 21, 20.
A bold route, run-out in places.
3 3Dance Delight Fantastic, 22 22
2.01
  • P1
  • 22

To the second belay on Hammerhead Arête.
4 4Hammerhead Arête, 19 19 0m
2.01
  • P1
  • 19

The prominent arête left of the Great White Slabs; a quick-drying route which should become safe from rock and ice avalanches by the end of January.

Pitches 1 and 2 rebolted Apr 2026. Simply excellent quality slab climbing.
5 5Smear the Queer, 19 19
0
  • P1
  • 19

Named for the Homosexual Law Reform debate that was going on at the time.

Images

Comments
cragrat
climbnz_editor member

Maybe you could rebolt it Rick

Thu, 18/07/2024 - 13:39 Permalink
Kiwiclimber

Other routes on the slabs between the Phil's Bivvy Slabs and the Gill's Bivvy Slabs:
* Africa Slab (18) 45 m
The slab directly behind Phil's Biv, a steep section of slab bounded by 2 water streaks. There are 3 difficult sections, between scalloped ledge/footholds. The top 25 m to the belay is low angle.
Descent: walk down the side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (lead), Peter Newton, 2/2/78

* Susceptibility Slab (19) 50 m
Above the 2nd stream East of Gill's Bivvy is a steep, clean slab with a triangle of white/red rock below it. Start at the white slab.
Pitch 1, 25 m: Climb the white slab, move left and then up trending right to the foot of a short corner which is climbed to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2, 25 m: From left on the belay ledge start up the slab, trending right (crux) to the righthand rib which is followed to the top. Sparse protection.
Descent: walk down on the eastern side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (both leads), Peter Newton, 3/2/78

Mon, 15/07/2024 - 01:50 Permalink
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
1b9cadca-7018-43b7-a176-74b6b280a2f4