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Gill's Bivvy Slabs

Type

These climbs lie in an avalanche runout zone, and may have damaged bolts.

Image
Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
1 1Cat Scratch Slab, 22 22
2.01

  • P1
  • 22

Three pitches. 18, 17, 22. The first bolt is missing, making the route unclimbable at present.


2 2Jackhammer, 21 21
0

  • P1
  • 21

Two pitches. 21, 20. A bold route, run-out in places.


3 3Dance Delight Fantastic, 22 22
2.01

  • P1
  • 22

To the second belay on Hammerhead Arête.


4 4Hammerhead Arête, 19 19
2.01

  • P1
  • 19

The prominent arête left of the Great White Slabs; a quick-drying route which should become safe from rock and ice avalanches by the end of January.


5 5Smear the Queer, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19

Named for the Homosexual Law Reform debate that was going on at the time.


Images

Comments
cragrat
content_editor

Maybe you could rebolt it Rick

Thu, 18/07/2024 - 13:39 Permalink
Kiwiclimber

Other routes on the slabs between the Phil's Bivvy Slabs and the Gill's Bivvy Slabs:
* Africa Slab (18) 45 m
The slab directly behind Phil's Biv, a steep section of slab bounded by 2 water streaks. There are 3 difficult sections, between scalloped ledge/footholds. The top 25 m to the belay is low angle.
Descent: walk down the side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (lead), Peter Newton, 2/2/78

* Susceptibility Slab (19) 50 m
Above the 2nd stream East of Gill's Bivvy is a steep, clean slab with a triangle of white/red rock below it. Start at the white slab.
Pitch 1, 25 m: Climb the white slab, move left and then up trending right to the foot of a short corner which is climbed to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2, 25 m: From left on the belay ledge start up the slab, trending right (crux) to the righthand rib which is followed to the top. Sparse protection.
Descent: walk down on the eastern side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (both leads), Peter Newton, 3/2/78

Mon, 15/07/2024 - 01:50 Permalink
Attribution
Craig Jefferies
UUID
 
1b9cadca-7018-43b7-a176-74b6b280a2f4