Gill's Bivvy Slabs

Type

Sector

Part of

Moraine Creek Slabs

These climbs lie in an avalanche runout zone, and may have damaged bolts.

Aspect

North

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Quality
1	1Cat Scratch Slab, 22	22	2.01
P1 22 Three pitches. 18, 17, 22. The first bolt is missing, making the route unclimbable at present.
2	2Jackhammer, 21	21	0
P1 21 Two pitches. 21, 20. A bold route, run-out in places.
3	3Dance Delight Fantastic, 22	22	2.01
P1 22 To the second belay on Hammerhead Arête.
4	4Hammerhead Arête, 19	19	2.01
P1 19 The prominent arête left of the Great White Slabs; a quick-drying route which should become safe from rock and ice avalanches by the end of January.
5	5Smear the Queer, 19	19	0
P1 19 Named for the Homosexual Law Reform debate that was going on at the time.

Images

Comments

cragrat

content_editor

Maybe you could rebolt it Rick

Thu, 18/07/2024 - 13:39 Permalink

Kiwiclimber

Other routes on the slabs between the Phil's Bivvy Slabs and the Gill's Bivvy Slabs:
* Africa Slab (18) 45 m
The slab directly behind Phil's Biv, a steep section of slab bounded by 2 water streaks. There are 3 difficult sections, between scalloped ledge/footholds. The top 25 m to the belay is low angle.
Descent: walk down the side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (lead), Peter Newton, 2/2/78

* Susceptibility Slab (19) 50 m
Above the 2nd stream East of Gill's Bivvy is a steep, clean slab with a triangle of white/red rock below it. Start at the white slab.
Pitch 1, 25 m: Climb the white slab, move left and then up trending right to the foot of a short corner which is climbed to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2, 25 m: From left on the belay ledge start up the slab, trending right (crux) to the righthand rib which is followed to the top. Sparse protection.
Descent: walk down on the eastern side.
First ascent: Rick McGregor (both leads), Peter Newton, 3/2/78

Mon, 15/07/2024 - 01:50 Permalink

Attribution

Craig Jefferies

UUID

1b9cadca-7018-43b7-a176-74b6b280a2f4