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Remarkable Dykes

Type
Altitude
300m
Part of

These are two impressive trachyte dykes running up the hillside on the south side of Lyttelton Harbour. They have been climbed on since the '30s, but despite the amount of steep rock, there is not much scope for good climbing. Five good routes, including the classic **Angels' Pavement, are known.

Recommended access is from the Kaituna Valley and Kaituna Saddle. Approaching from McQueens Valley side may earn you the wrath of a Mr Harneiss. All the routes are on the east side of the western dyke.

Aspect
North
Lat/lon
-43.70362535,172.68598274, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX24 747 610
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Fallen Angel, 15 15 22m
0

Starts at a minor R-facing corner on the L of the wall. Up to a ledge, and
steep exit crack with loose blocks.


  • P1
  • 15
  • 22m
  • Trad

 Deo Volente, 14 14 18m
0

A vague crack about 3m R. From the ledge continue up the arete.


  • P1
  • 14
  • 18m
  • Trad

 Avatar, 16 16 18m
0

Climb the wall R of D.V. to a ledge, then up a short wall to join the finish
of Angels' Pavement.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

 Angels' Pavement, 13 13 40m
2.01

A classic route up the the main arete of the upper part of the dyke. An
almost alpine experience dating back to the '30s. Start from the low point in
the upper part of the dyke.


  • P1
  • 13
  • 40m
  • Trad

 Good Shepherd, 12 12 8m
0

A direct route up the wall just R of the obvious easy R-facing corner in the
middle of the north wall. Steep but with good holds.


  • P1
  • 12
  • 8m
  • Trad

Comments
jenwaite0

There's an awesome scramble all the way from the Gebbies pass-Packhorse hut track to the top: follow the top of the West dyke and finish with Angels' pavement. Grade about 12 for the lower sections, on fairly good rock. Alternative easier start up the Eastern dyke, joining the West dyke at the chockstone.

Mon, 10/06/2013 - 20:54 Permalink
UUID
 
71b7b640-7251-409c-a9b9-42738d6c8d19