The tremendous slabs of the south face are most imposing ... wrote Scott
Gilkison and Harry Stephenson in 1956. Imposing, and unclimbed, the 700 metre
high south west face remained until February 1993 when Bill McLeod and Peter
K.Dickson arrived during a fine spell.
To those who admire the Tall and Steep this face is a compelling sight from
Baker Creek. Well fortified with overhangs, verticality, and stone fall
zones. The route however is not threatened and is climbed on good rock with a
multitude of grips.
Bill McLeod, personal communication, February 1993.
- P1
- 17
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 6-
- 700m
Ascend features up centre of the face to finish just west of the summit. Begin at an obvious access slab between pronounced overhangs and move up to ledge beneath steep wall. Follow up and right to gain clean rib and continue on until the rib terminates beside a big gully. The route moves left along a weakness of blocky brown rock to gain another rib, which i sthe right side of a smaller gully.Climb the rib to it's conclusion then breach the steep upper band by continuing up a line of weaknesses above the rib then moving left onto easier angle and straight up. 23 Pitches
Barron Saddle - Mt Brewster Guide