Twins Route

Originally an easy ascent from beside the Tasman Glacier or from the junction of the Tasman and Murchison valleys, but the current condition of the moraine walls would make this quite an achievement! If climbing from the Tasman, Novara is best climbed via Dorothy Stream.
From the Haupapa Tasman Glacier, travel about 500m up the true left (south) bank of Dorothy Stream until opposite a prominent rock gut on the true right, then climb up scree and light scrub to gain the ridge at the 1450m shoulder. Once on the ridge, climb up to the shelf at 1700m and then scramble to the top.