West Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Part of

The névé between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon provides access to the face. The prominent routes are described, and there are a number of other variations, especially in gullies further left towards Mt Haast.

Aspect

West

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Middle Class White Boys Get Away With Rape, 18,4-	18,4-	0m	0
P1 18 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4- Ill-defined rock rib on left of face
	Left Buttress, 4	4	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4 Directly under the summit, ascend from a snow cone to gain a rock rib, which steepens in the middle before some interesting pitches on good rock below the summit.
4.58	4.58Central Gully, IV,4+,3+	IV,4+,3+	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Commitment) IV Alpine (Technical) 4+ Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Ascend a snow couloir and ice gully to the right of the main buttress and take the thin left branch, finish up rock to emerge right of the summit. There is no record of who first climbed the R branch.
	Right Buttress, 3+	3+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Ascend easy-angled, sound rock and finish near the top of the south ridge
	White Spring, 4+	4+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+ South ridge/west face. 300m of mostly 60o ice with some steeper ground. A winter route.
	No way out, III,5+,18	III,5+,18	0m	0
P1 18 Alpine (Commitment) III Alpine (Technical) 5+ Begins at the base of a lobe of rock beneath the shoulder on the South Ridge. Start up a chimney (crux grade 18), head left onto the face, up an obvious grade 15 rock gully

Comments

UUID

23130823-662f-4c58-bfa2-55b4393a7254