Grade
18,4+
Length
0m
0
Quality
First ascent
Hamish Dunn, Rob Staszewski, Feb 1985
Located on
- P1
- 18
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
Start climbing up the prow of the buttress, then continue up the slabby buttress above keeping well right of the corner. Move right to climb roofs R of the prow. Twelve pitches of excellent sustained rockclimbing (crux 18, also pitches of 16).
Comments
UUID
39b8d04a-4188-4e84-ba04-de77b6efb227
I've seen a superbly detailed photo by Steve Fortune on the web of the Gledhill Buttress I wonder, if he is agreeable, if it could be loaded on to the site for people to scrawl some lines on? I'm not very tech savvy but I think cragrat's suggestion is the way to go.
In reply to I've seen a superbly detailed by hamish dunn
Here? https://plus.google.com/photos/100183959974195344086/albums/58286114679…
When Bill McLeod and myself climbed "the Terminator route" he took on the blank slabs and unlikely looking overlaps on the upper part of the route in the most direct manner, basically without deviating around anything. There was more than one section of demanding climbing, and it was runout and scary. The crux of the climbing was a solid grade 20 in my opinion, with cruxes of 18 and 19 on other pitches/sections of the climb.
I guess what we did was the same as the Vass/Strang variation but I disagree with their given grade of 18.
Carol and I indeed climbed this buttress, or general vicinity, in Jan 1985. At the time we thought we were on the Gledhill Buttress, due to a rather minimal description in the guidebook ("climb prominent buttress by corners in the centre"). It is only when I was proofing a copy of Alex's book did I realize that we were nowhere near the Gledhill Buttress but were on the Terminator Buttress. We actually started up the toe of the buttress as per Terminator. However after about 20 metres the rock started to get rather blank, so cowardice took over and I traversed left across a broad ledge into the gully, which we thought was the correct route. We climbed about 3 pitches in the gully, or face just on right of it. At this point the groove became a bit wet from snow-melt so, at a difficult overhang, I moved right into the centre of the slab. It was steep thin face climbing with only occasional pro, possibly 17ish. We climbed through three overlaps / overhangs, neither of which were as bad as they looked. The third of these overhangs may be the one Hamish refers to (who knows) as my diary records that we moved right for some distance below it before we found a relatively easy route through it. After this the climbing eased and we followed the ridge on the right towards the summit. We belayed for another 4 pitches, doing 10 pitches in all.
Rob and I climbed directly up from the lowest point of the prow, the first couple of pitches being the crux - thin and protected on small/ medium wires . Quite hard with cold fingers and toes. When the climbing started to ease a bit Rob found a hanging ramp that lead diagonally up and to the right for approx 1 rope length towards a rather unlikely looking overhang. This turned out to go fairly easily and with solid rock and reasonable pro and approx 15 m after the overhang we were able to move together. I don't recall anything like 12 pitches maybe 6 or 7 rope lengths....all really good, particularly the right trending ramp which was suspended over a very steep wall. This is I believe a completely independent route from that of Carol and Phil's which looked bloody good also.
Slightly odd that Castle/McDermott climbed this route before first ascent? Or are dates wrong? Or prehaps the variation described by them is considered a different route? Anyway, climbed the Castle/McDermott variation with Julia Valigore, excellent climbing, weaving between the roofs on upper buttress is very cool! Prob slightly easier than prow? 17/18?