Gledhill Buttress

(11 routes)

Mainly rock routes above the Noeline Glacier.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
West
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Castle - McDermott 4 17
2.01
wire representing trad
Started up the toe of the Buttress initially and then moved left into the corner after 20m. Continued up the corner then up the middle of the upper slabs and traversed back right to cross the roof line in the upper wall. They mistook this for the Gledhill Buttress.
Phil Castle, Carol McDermott , January 1985
Xmas Sausage: Terminator Variant 4 18
0
3
Head up the Terminator and then straight up the slabby buttress above
Jeremy Strang, Dave Vass, Dec 1988.
Terminator 4+ 18
1.02
6
Start climbing up the prow of the buttress, then continue up the slabby buttress above keeping well right of the corner. Move right to climb roofs R of the prow. Twelve pitches of excellent sustained rockclimbing (crux 18, also pitches of 16).
Hamish Dunn, Rob Staszewski, Feb 1985
Gledhill Route 4 17
0
1
Start right of the prow of the prominent buttress. Easy angled climbing leads up right into a corner and deep ugly gully. A crux near the top of the gully (two possible options, both grade 17) is followed by 200m of scrambling to the summit.
Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Feb 1973.
Tom and Bill 3+ 14
0
On the buttress rib right of the Gledhill and Terminator, (crux 14, but might be harder), limited protection.
Adrian Daly, Brendan Wilson, Jan 1988.
Variant 3+ 14
0
Starts 70m right of the Gledhill line near a waterfall. Climb face to overhang, then up groove and steep gully, and follow a rib to the top. Excellent rock, (possibly involves th Ton & Bill Route).
Matt Perchad, Garry Phillips, Feb 1996.
Noeline Couloir 2
0
Ascend the couloir and rock steps between the two summits. This is a standard ascent and descent route. There are a considerable number of variations, especially to the left of the couloir.
Freda Du Faur, Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Mar 1912.
Du Faur Ridge
0
The southern wall of the Noeline Glacier can be gained at various points and although the upper portion has been climbed often, the ridge does not appear to have been climbed in its entirety. Excellent rock buttresses are found on the lower ridge.
Tim Jefferson Memorial Route 3 16
0
The obvious buttress clearly visible from Gardiner Hut on the western end of the West Ridge of Nazomi. Climb the north side of the buttress using the obvious left facing corner for three pitches, turning two large roofs on the left. Move onto broken slabs of the west face through an overhanging ‘V’ slot on the NW ridge (crux 16). Easy scrambling along the ridge then leads to a point above a large snow slope leading down the north side to the Noeline Glacier descent route.
Steve Upton, Mike Morrissey, Jan 1983.
White-Vervoorn Buttress 4 15
1.02
Gain the buttress from the Hooker Glacier below the Hooker Icefall 300m of hard climbing on excellent rock (crux 15), which is reportedly far better than the McInnes Ridge, that leads to lesser angled rock which a confident party can climb unroped. To descend, walk off the top of the second buttress down the Noeline Glacier.
Aat Vervoorn, David White, Nov 1972.
MacInnes Ridge 4
0
Starting from the lower Hooker Glacier beside the stream from the Mona Glacier, climb the first buttress, then onto the second buttress of good rock (with a 50m cheval) and up to the “Gnome”, from where a short descent leads onto a small glacier below the final wall. An escape route exists to the left round to Gardiner Hut. Otherwise straight up variable rock to the summit ridge. This section can often be iced up.
Hamish MacInnes, Peter Robinson, Feb 1955.
Attribution: 
Alex Palman

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