One of the stand-out lines on the face,
involving steep and sustained climbing up to
WI4 and M5. From the edge of the Central
Gullies, climb the upper of the two major
vertical couloirs which run up the left side of
the Right Buttress. If sections are devoid of ice,
then it is possible to dry-tool/aid climb through
them. Near the top of the couloir it is possible
to traverse onto the crest of the buttress to avoid one final pitch of ice. Finish
up the Right Buttress route, or rappel off.
There is some fixed gear, but it would be
unwise to trust or rely on it. In 1985, Nick
Cradock and Kevin Boekholt eliminated the
aid used in the first ascent and completed the
top of the route, which is where the ‘Logan’s
Retreat’ jibe came from (check out the old
journals for more).
This previously great route hasn't got enough ice to be climbable for well over a decade now.
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 6+
- Alpine (Commitment) V
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 6+